Hello, My Faithful
Readers
August 7, 2018
Volume 2, Number 10 (Part2
of 2)
Travels in East Europe
(The Baltic States) = Part 2
Before I begin with
the second leg of the trip; I want to share my experience on Turkish Airline
from Prague to Istanbul. For some reason, and believe me I am not questioning
it, I was bumped up from economy to business class. Wow, now I know why they close
the curtains so we cannot see what is going on.
Drinks even before we
took off and then snacks. Of course, only two persons on the aisle so there is
lot of room. Once in the air again they took another drink order as to what I
wanted to drink with dinner. Of course, scotch – but then sometimes they offer
that in economy also. Dinner came, or shall I say the first course, an
assortment of cheese and various spreads with bread. Olives and stuff I have no
idea. Then the main course arrived. I had the pasta; but they had at least 3 or
4 other selections. More drinks were ordered and then we were given a brand new
computer tablet to watch movies, etc. on. The headphones were REAL headphones,
not the plastic skinny ear plugs that are usually given.
It was so enjoyable; I
was so sad when I heard that we were getting ready to land. No, No..I thought.
I loved this kind of treatment. When we left the plane there was a private bus
for business class people to take us to the terminal (as we landed on the
field).
This was a new
experience for me as I have always flown economy; however, I am re-thinking
this. I decided on this trip that I was
done with “Shoestring” travel; that is going the most economical way. Up until
now that is the only way I’ve been able to travel; but, I think it is time for
a change.
The next leg of the
journey was to travel from Lithuania to Warsaw, Poland. We headed to the bus
station around 3:30pm and knew we were not getting off that bus until 11:30pm.
It was estimated that we would travel 8 hours (maybe 9). There is a time
difference in Poland of 1 hour. We were going to lose an hour and honestly 8
hours or 9 hours, did it make a difference. This is low budget travel J
When the bus came it
was the biggest bus I’ve even seen and brand new. Fabulous seats that actually
moved away from your seat partner to give you more room. All the buses had the
TV/Movie screens that we all use on airplanes. We had headphones and it also
made the internet available. Of course, a bathroom and free coffee and water
were available. We were coached to make sure we had a good lunch before travel and
to bring any food that we wanted on the bus as we would not be making any food
stops.
For me, it was not
that bad. You see, I’ve never seen “The X Files” from Season 1 so I was able to
watch episode after episode and the time went really quickly. When we arrived
in Warsaw our tour guide arranged for Taxi’s to take us to the hotel which was
such a disappointment (the hotel) as it
just felt creepy. It was a 2 star hotel (proudly advertised on the outside
signage of the hotel). It did have an elevator, that is good news; but no fan
and man oh man was it hot, hot, hot. The room was adequate but the windows
opened up onto a courtyard where you could hear everyone talking. Even though
it was late; people were still up and talking both in their rooms and also to
people across the courtyard. I was so tired that I was able to fall asleep even
with the heat and noise.
At this point we had
been traveling for 8 days and I was really starting to feel the rigor of the
travel. My phone was telling me every time I had reached 10,000 steps and I had
not even programmed it to do so. We walked a lot. We walked almost a full hour
(in the hot sun) to get to the start of the tour in Old City.
I did start the tour;
but was told it was going to be 3 hours. I decided to just tour on my own a
little and then sit down and enjoy the view. The Old City had been completely
destroyed during the war as a punishment for the Warsaw uprising. All the
buildings I was seeing were brand new; however, they were built as they had
appeared before the war to prior specifications. I found a place for lunch and
had some Pierogies. I was disappointed as they were more like dumplings; but I
was hungry and they were OK. I walked around a little more and noticed lots of
advertising for Chopin Concerts that were being given in the evening. I knew
there was no way I was coming back for that.
On my way back to the
hotel I noticed (right off the highway and tramway) there was a cement
enclosure of water and in the water there was a bear starring at me. OMG, right
in the middle of the city the bear was swimming. Seriously, I wanted to join
him. I found my way over to the mall and bought a pair of sunglasses. It was
air conditioned; but so many people were going in and out so it was sort of
lukewarm in the mall. Once again I saw many of the same stores that I noticed
(Zara, Starbucks, etc.) in the previous cities. A lot of the Warsaw buildings
looked like the top of a wedding cake. It was beautiful to look at.
Our tour guide said
that Warsaw has been polished for the tourist. The center square was so big;
but there were very few places to sit. The tour guides keep prodding us to
participate in the night life; and there is a wild nightlife scene in Warsaw;
however, after being out all day in the heat and sun and walking how many
thousands of steps; I was just ready for bed.
In a couple of words;
I did not like Warsaw. It felt big and impersonal and not my cup of tea. I
started to realize (again) that all my life I have been traveling in what I
call a “Shoestring”. Cutting corners and budgeting so that often times comfort
was discarded for saving money.
We had 2 nights in the
hotel; but only one full day in the city and honestly that was enough for me.
We got up early and
walked to the train station to board first class train cars going to Krakow. It
was going to be a 3+ hour journey; but it was so comfortable. The young man
came around with the coffee cart and snacks. The windows were open and a nice
breeze took away some of the heat. Looking out the windows I could see
occasionally a farm house here and there or fields planted with something or other.
Other than what is in the city; there is not much along the road.
We arrived in Krakow
and it immediately felt GREAT to me. I don’t know what it is with me and
cities. I get a feeling in a city and Krakow felt good to me. We were going to
stay in the Jewish section of the city; so, we got on a tram car and traveled
to our new hotel.
Our hotel was in the
Jewish Quarter of the city and it was wonderful. I HAD A FAN!!! (It’s the
little things that matter). Instead of going for lunch we went to the round-about
located in the center of the Jewish Quarter. All kinds of food were available
as well as ice cream. I really liked this area.
We began our tour and
we stopped before we headed into the old city as a few members of the group
wanted to have their laundry done. There is a place with a dedicated woman
doing laundry in a Laundromat. The clothes were weighed and then paid for at
the coffee shop. Ah, Modern Life!
We walked and walked
and found ourselves at a castle that the Wawel Dragon stood guard over. Much of
all our surprise, after a couple minutes of watching, the dragon had flames
coming out of his mouth. He had a lot of flames; almost to the point that I
thought it would set the trees on fire. We all gasped and the children were
frozen in place. I don’t know much about the castle as that is something that
really does not interest me. But just in case you are, the link is below.
At times I felt like I
was in Disney World walking toward the center square. We passed all kinds of
food shops (Polish Donuts); ice cream and tons of cafes and restaurants as well
as clothing stores (more of the same). I had a beer in the main square and
waited for the hourly bugle call form the tower of St. Mary’s Church. It was
entertaining.
I found my way to an
English book shop in Krakow. As always; I get lost and then found; but, it was
worth it. I so miss being in bookstores. I was looking for “The Tattooist of
Auschwitz” and even though the book seller said they didn’t have a copy, I
found one. Link before for more information.
At that point I found
my way to the pierogi restaurant that the tour guide recommended. He said it is
usually so crowded he has to take out and eat in the park. So, when I arrived
it was just me and another couple – well, I didn’t know what to think. However,
when I left there was standing room only in the restaurant and there was a line
half a block long waiting to get in.
I had the Russian
Pierogi’s (with onions on top) that were
better than my first sampling; but, I know I am comparing them to my
grandmother’s and nothing will come close. Went back to the Jewish Quarter and
had more ice cream and just sat and watched all the happenings in this very
busy place.
The next day we went
as a group to Auschwitz-Birkenau German Nazi concentration and extermination
camp. I don’t need to say much about this; just a couple of items. We had a
private bus pick us up at the hotel (what a treat that was) and during the hour
plus journey to the site we watched a movie about the liberation of the camp
that was filmed by Russian photographers. It was sobering; but the tour guide
wanted to prepare us for what was to come.
As we get in line for
our timed tickets we were given a lecture (all groups were given a lecture I
was told) on how to behave in the camp. I thought it was so sad that people had
to be reminded of how to behave at such a location. We all went thru metal
detectors (similar to the airport) and had headphones to hear our guide.
Our guide was
excellent. People were taking pictures but not too long into the tour they
stopped. I never even started to take pictures. What we saw, I know for myself,
left an imprint in my mind and body that cannot be duplicated with the digital
camera. We walked through many of the buildings that showcased the tangible
remains of the people who were enslaved here. Everyone spoke in muted voices
and it was so quiet mostly you heard so many feet on gravel and the air pushing
past your ears.
After a 20 minute
rest, as our tour was around 2 hours; we headed to Birkenau. It was a hot, hot
day and we entered the camp and walked. So many of the buildings didn’t
survive; but, one can get the idea of the desolation that existed here. There
was one of the rail cars that brought the prisoners into the camp. We were all
so uncomfortable walking; but, I was trying to imagine how this place was in
the winter/summer. There was nothing really to block the wind/sun and the
buildings that survived surely didn’t shelter well.
I found a place to sit
in the shade (barely) and let the group go forward. It was so difficult hearing
how cruel life was here; but seeing the reality of it before my eyes made it
(no words can describe). We walked, and walked and again (as they went into the
buildings) I left the group. Just too much for me both physically and
emotionally.
We returned to the
city in silence. Most people fell asleep in the van as we returned. We never really
spoke of it as a group; I don’t know what really could be said.
I went to the Jewish
Quarter to have some lunch/dinner and had what is called Polish Fast Food. It
is called a Zapiekanka. This is a long piece of bread that looks a lot like
what I think of as garlic bread. This bread has a base of mushrooms and cheese
and is baked. You can then, if you choose, place other stuff on top. For example,
meats, all kinds of vegetables, so many options. I choose to add tomato. It was
good; but too much bread for me.
We were told this was very popular
during the Russian times and then disappeared. However, it was making a return
as fast food.
We found Polish Vodka
(Hazelnut). OMG, if you want something delicious this is it. I didn’t buy any;
however, hope to find in the States. (see below)
The next morning we
had waiting for us outside our hotel another private van to take us to the
Tatras Mountains in Slovakia. Wow, this is great. We left Poland traveling
about 4 hours and arrived at a lovely hotel. We didn’t need a fan as the
temperature and humidity was much more reasonable than the cities we were in.
Our rooms were not
ready so we headed out for a tour. Again, walking, walking, but now it was not
flat. We were walking and climbing. The atmosphere was so tranquil. Mostly
there were people on bikes or walking on the paths. We stopped for lunch at a
place the guide recommended. It was 4 Euro for a 2 course meal (beverage was
extra). The owner was a real hoot. He could not speak English except for 2
words – “yummy” and “OK”.
I ordered the chicken
soup and a chicken platter. The chicken soup was the BEST I’ve had in decades.
It was even better than my chicken soup. Every time food was placed in front of
us the owner said “yummy” – it was so cute. Another member of the group also
had the chicken soup but barely touched it; so, I HAD to make sure the soup got
a good home in my belly. Forget the chicken platter; I was in love with the
soup.
Honestly, I didn’t do
any of the hiking with the group. I’ve gained too much weigh to manage that;
but, I was thrilled to be able to sit in the outside area and read and enjoy the
view and the air (as well as the beer). J
We were in the
mountains for two days and then headed to our final destination; that is,
Prague. I’ve been to Prague many years ago and didn’t like it and I don’t know
why. However, I thought I’d give it another chance.
Our mode of travel was
different from Slovakia to Prague. We went overnight by sleeper train. Now, I
had been dreading this as I was on a sleeper train in India and it was not a
pleasant experience. However, when we boarded (3 to a berth) I was so
surprised. The linen was not bad. Very while and clean. Not brand new; but not
ragged either. I was starting to feel better.
Before I even realized
it the train was moving. The window was open so I could hear the click, clack
of the train. I got into my bottom bunk (that you my traveling companions) and
watched as the towns went by. We had a lock on our door and a curtain so that
no one could look in. I felt safe; however, for some reason I started to feel
nauseous. The bathroom was not that far away; but, mind over matter, I told
myself that this was not how I was going to spend my time on the train.
I did fall asleep; as
we were woke up at 5:00am to the man bringing the coffee and pastry. The train
was pulling in at 6:00am. When we got to the hotel, of course, our rooms were
not ready so off we went on a tour after breakfast. It was already so hot at 8:00am; I am glad we
were walking early. The nauseous feeling continued; maybe now it was not the
movement but the heat.
I pushed on to
hopefully see some aspects of this city that other people see and fall in love
with. Sadly, I did not. We did find a GREAT place to exchange money as Prague
does not use the Euro. Most places were getting .21; however, we got .26. That
was good news.
We did see the
sculpture of Kafka that, even though we didn’t see it, they say it spins around
(we were too early, I guess). I was so surprised that a few in the group did
not know of his work. They wanted to know what his famous writings were.
The other landmark was
the John Lennon Wall in Prague. I’ve listed a link in case you are interested
in knowing more. Also, something about
the Charles Bridge that we crossed over to the old city.
I found a restaurant
to have dinner in that was Air Conditioned; however, as I was being served the
waitress opened the front door. OMG, are you kidding me. The only reason I came
into this restaurant was to enjoy the A/c. The other couple in the place and I
went over and closed the door.
After 14 days; I was
fully cooked of Adventure Travel. I live Adventure Travel living here in Tbilisi;
and I was ready to complete the tour. I knew I was going back to Hot, Hot
Tbilisi (with no a/c); but then, I didn’t have to go on any more FORCED MARCHES
(AKA – Tour Guides) – HA.
It was a wonderful
trip, overall – but it was hard. The younger folks in the group said it was
hard also and they were also ready to dis-engage; so, maybe my age or aging
didn’t have as much to my fatigue as I thought.
Dealing with (6)
countries; (3) different methods of currency; luggage; buses - I realized I would not do this kind of travel
again. One of the things I do is collect flags from each of the countries that
I visit. I was NOT able to get Slovakia.
So much happened and I
am grateful for the opportunity. I am sure I am missing lots of great stuff
that happened; but this is enough. After I return from travel my mind continues
to reveal so much of what I lived but didn’t register fully.
Thank you for joining
me on my virtual travels within the blog J
Best, Catherine
Lawrence – 8/7/18
Polish Fast Food - could not wait and took a bite :-)
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