Thursday, August 16, 2018




 Hello, My Faithful Readers

August 16th, 2018
Volume 2, Number 11

My thinking was to end the blog; however, I am going only to “suspend” it. Ah, I know that language can be structured to mean anything; but, I don’t feel that this part of my life is ending. What I mean by that is even though I don’t plan to reside in Georgia at any time in the future; I do plan to live internationally. Where that location will be remains to be seen and at that point I will awaken the BLOG! J

My plan even here in Georgia was to use my apartment in Tbilisi as a home base and move around living in various countries for the time that a visa is allowed for. Usually the visa for so many countries is for 90 days; and that amount of time would give me a taste (just a little taste); but, for the moment that amount of time is OK. I can still implement my plan in Philadelphia; thereby using my condo as a base. So, my plan is still viable.

I just don’t know where I belong any longer. I thought it was here in Georgia; where initially I saw so much potential and opportunity that I just don’t see feasible more. I’ve written about the why’s and wherefore’s of why I think that, so I don’t want to rehash it all again. Needless to say that clarity came after spending 4-1/2 years here.

I am grateful for this opportunity that the Peace Corps opened for me here as a volunteer and then the continuation living here in Georgia as an Ex-pat. I need to say that many of my dreams were realized while living in Georgia. I am also excited about what the future holds and to fulfill the dreams that I have left to realize.

Before Peace Corps I could have predicted how my days, months, years would be spent (and where I would spend them). Honestly, I just don’t know at this point what is next. I have some ideas and some of them even surprise me. So, My Faithful Readers this saga will continue at some point.

During my last days here in Tbilisi I did something that was so uncharacteristic of who I know myself to be. I’ve been thinking of doing this now since I left the Peace Corps; but, didn’t know “what to say or where to say it”. I had a tattoo placed on my left leg, near the ankle on the inside.

While I was traveling my answers came to light as to the “what to say and where to say it”.  As my life is about to change, once again, I realized that the symbolism of the Butterfly was a visual that will help me go forward.

Of course, there are many meanings to this symbol; but, what most resonated with me is the symbol of Resurrection. In addition, Endurance, Change, Hope and Life, intangible attributes, that provide courage and strength.

I wanted to do this in Krakow and Prague; but it was so hot and there were lines of people waiting to go into the Tattoo Shop. I did find a place here in Tbilisi; and so the adventure begins. I found the tattoo of choice on the internet and sent it to the artist. He in turn made a stencil of it. He gave me three different sizes. He said the largest of the three was the best; so I took his advice. If I had to do over again I would have chosen the smaller (middle size) and I would have made it not so dark. I didn’t realize until later that I only wanted a light outline (ok, live and learn). What I got was better than a fire breathing dragon (HA)

However, it is fine the way it is. I am still getting used to having it. I look down sometimes and think there is dirt on my leg (HA). There was a little discomfort; but it only took all of 5 minutes. 100 Gel ($38.00 USD) – have no idea if this is a good price; but I didn’t care really about the money.

I am told that Tattoo’s are forever; but, seriously – there is nothing that is forever.  It was, and yet, another experience and that is my focus and has been my focus. I want to experience everything that I can and this was just another manifestation of that.

What I will miss about Georgia
-August is the BEST month here in Georgia. Of course it is hot and humid; but Tbilisi is empty. I will miss this. Most city families go to the villages where it is a little cooler; and by so doing the city is less congested.

-I will miss going to the world class concerts here. I have so enjoyed all the various venues that the city supplies and even better the concerts are so inexpensive, if not free.

-I will miss some of the relationships that I built here. Of course we will stay in touch with email and such; but, not the same thing as real time interaction.

-I will miss my apartment. I love living at tree top level.

What I will not miss about Georgia
-I won’t miss the food. I know Georgia’s reputation is for delicious food (and I have written about various standard foods); but unfortunately just not to my liking.

-I won’t miss the buses or the metro. Buses that are so crowded (and often times the same for the metro) that you don’t need to hold on. Just the volume of people squeezed in will keep you upright.

-I won’t miss the drilling/power saw/banging that seems to go on endlessly and at all hours (sometimes until midnight)

-I will not miss the “wild west” mindset here; were all kinds of guns and automatic weapons are sold basically in the backyard of Universities. Rules don’t apply here. In fact, the adage is “the only rule in Georgia is that there are no rules.” People often just do as they please regardless of how it impacts other people.

-I will not miss the dog that is my neighbor or the indifference of the Georgian family that allows this dog to be mistreated.

-I will not miss what I call “Land Mines” walking. The sidewalks are so ripped up; one reason is that cars can drive and park on the sidewalks. Pedestrians are an endangered species here as the car rules. Another is that pipes and assorted other left over materials are just left in the middle of sidewalks. Danger, Will Robinson. 

-I will not miss the DOGS here in Georgia. I’ve written about this countless times in my blog about how dogs are mistreated.  It says a lot about the culture as to how it treats its animals.

Cannabis in Georgia…. The Judgment means that there will no longer be an administrative punishment for the use of marijuana. However, the decision does NOT allow cultivation and/or selling of Cannabis.

Of course there is more to the judgment; however, what struck me is that if it is ok to smoke it then where can I get it? If I cannot cultivate it or sell it – where does it come from? It is very strange. Link below if you are interested in knowing more.


My backyard is going to be renovated here in Georgia. Wow, I think it is really a good time to leave as what they are planning right outside my window/balcony will take a long, long, long to complete and the noise and dirt will be terrible.

My terrace looks out over Mziuri Park and it is truly lovely as really nothing really happens in the park. Occasionally there are packs of dogs barking; but, here in Georgia that is common when not in the park. People do walk thru now and then; but basically it is a very quiet park. If what the link below outlines will happen; well then, that will change.

Times they are a changing and like I said my timing may be spot on to leave the country.


Before I close I wanted to mention a few additional pieces of information about my trip from Estonia to Prague.

The first is the sleeper train from Slovakia to Prague. I found it so surprising and sweet that there Mentos Candy on the pillows of each berth. It was a very small size (like a sample size); but how sweet. I threw it in my handbag as the train started to move and a few days later when I was on the plane traveling back to Tbilisi I found them. It made me smile.

The second is something that happened in Prague on Wednesday, August 1st. While I was waiting for my taxi to take me to the airport I heard sirens blasting away outside the window. I knew they were not police or fire sirens and then seemed to go on for a long time. I finally asked the desk clerk what was going on.

The man said that on the first Wednesday of each month they test the air raid sirens in the city. I didn’t realize that Prague was bombed during WW2 and have listed a link and information if you want more information. For me it was a cold reminder that history and memory don’t fade as here we are 73 years later and this city wants to insure that if the worst happens again they will be forewarned. Scarey.


On February 14, 1945, the American Air Force carried out an air raid over Prague which ranks as the most futile attack on Czech territory of the Second World War. Sixty years later it is still not clear whether the attack was an accident caused by bad weather conditions and the fact Prague and Dresden looked similar from the air, or whether it was a deliberate attack.

One final point that I left out of my paragraph on Auschwitz, We were invited to go into the gas chamber if we wanted. Again, words fail as I stood in the middle of this large concrete dark room with holes in the ceilings. I cannot remember if there were overhead lights; but, I imagine there were; but it sure felt dark. The holes were for the canisters to be dropped into the room for extermination. The room was not very high; but the walls captured me thinking of them being used for support as the gas flooded in.

There was complete silence; the guide had even stopped talking. We walked out of the room and passed the crematory and then out into the sunlight and heat. I am sorry that I didn’t include the above in my narrative blogs on my recent travel; but there is just so much to share; but, this is an important piece to my experience.

Alright, it is time to “suspend” the blog. I went today and closed out my bank accounts. The girls at the bank were sweet as they were sad that I was leaving Georgia. They wanted me to not close the accounts; but, since I honestly doubt if I will be back here I didn’t see a point.  (I will never say never)

I’ve put the finishing touches on my luggage; who, btw…are both under the 50 pound limit. I get (2) bags with Qatar Air and when I get to the airport I will have both encased in plastic. Both my bags are under weight but are busting at the seams. The plastic will insure that during the travel the bag does not break open.  It is the first time I’ve done this……


Thank you, My Faithful Readers for your continued support in keeping up with my adventures. I have a new plan formulating that will begin in December and stretch through early April, 2019. I don’t want to share as I don’t have it all flushed out yet; but, I am very excited about what comes next.

Buy Experience, Not Things

Best, Catherine Lawrence – August 16th, 2018

Laundry in Warsaw, Poland - July 2018

Hanging around in Warsaw :-) - look up

Peace Corps Memories in Sagarejo! 2014

Peace Corps Memories - 2014
2018 Tattoo Shop in Tblisi
The Butterfly, 2018 (my left foot -HA)




Tuesday, August 7, 2018


Hello, My Faithful Readers

August 7, 2018
Volume 2, Number 10 (Part2 of 2)

Travels in East Europe (The Baltic States) = Part 2

Before I begin with the second leg of the trip; I want to share my experience on Turkish Airline from Prague to Istanbul. For some reason, and believe me I am not questioning it, I was bumped up from economy to business class. Wow, now I know why they close the curtains so we cannot see what is going on.

Drinks even before we took off and then snacks. Of course, only two persons on the aisle so there is lot of room. Once in the air again they took another drink order as to what I wanted to drink with dinner. Of course, scotch – but then sometimes they offer that in economy also. Dinner came, or shall I say the first course, an assortment of cheese and various spreads with bread. Olives and stuff I have no idea. Then the main course arrived. I had the pasta; but they had at least 3 or 4 other selections. More drinks were ordered and then we were given a brand new computer tablet to watch movies, etc. on. The headphones were REAL headphones, not the plastic skinny ear plugs that are usually given.

It was so enjoyable; I was so sad when I heard that we were getting ready to land. No, No..I thought. I loved this kind of treatment. When we left the plane there was a private bus for business class people to take us to the terminal (as we landed on the field).

This was a new experience for me as I have always flown economy; however, I am re-thinking this.  I decided on this trip that I was done with “Shoestring” travel; that is going the most economical way. Up until now that is the only way I’ve been able to travel; but, I think it is time for a change.

The next leg of the journey was to travel from Lithuania to Warsaw, Poland. We headed to the bus station around 3:30pm and knew we were not getting off that bus until 11:30pm. It was estimated that we would travel 8 hours (maybe 9). There is a time difference in Poland of 1 hour. We were going to lose an hour and honestly 8 hours or 9 hours, did it make a difference. This is low budget travel J

When the bus came it was the biggest bus I’ve even seen and brand new. Fabulous seats that actually moved away from your seat partner to give you more room. All the buses had the TV/Movie screens that we all use on airplanes. We had headphones and it also made the internet available. Of course, a bathroom and free coffee and water were available. We were coached to make sure we had a good lunch before travel and to bring any food that we wanted on the bus as we would not be making any food stops.

For me, it was not that bad. You see, I’ve never seen “The X Files” from Season 1 so I was able to watch episode after episode and the time went really quickly. When we arrived in Warsaw our tour guide arranged for Taxi’s to take us to the hotel which was such a disappointment (the hotel)  as it just felt creepy. It was a 2 star hotel (proudly advertised on the outside signage of the hotel). It did have an elevator, that is good news; but no fan and man oh man was it hot, hot, hot. The room was adequate but the windows opened up onto a courtyard where you could hear everyone talking. Even though it was late; people were still up and talking both in their rooms and also to people across the courtyard. I was so tired that I was able to fall asleep even with the heat and noise.

At this point we had been traveling for 8 days and I was really starting to feel the rigor of the travel. My phone was telling me every time I had reached 10,000 steps and I had not even programmed it to do so. We walked a lot. We walked almost a full hour (in the hot sun) to get to the start of the tour in Old City.

I did start the tour; but was told it was going to be 3 hours. I decided to just tour on my own a little and then sit down and enjoy the view. The Old City had been completely destroyed during the war as a punishment for the Warsaw uprising. All the buildings I was seeing were brand new; however, they were built as they had appeared before the war to prior specifications. I found a place for lunch and had some Pierogies. I was disappointed as they were more like dumplings; but I was hungry and they were OK. I walked around a little more and noticed lots of advertising for Chopin Concerts that were being given in the evening. I knew there was no way I was coming back for that.

On my way back to the hotel I noticed (right off the highway and tramway) there was a cement enclosure of water and in the water there was a bear starring at me. OMG, right in the middle of the city the bear was swimming. Seriously, I wanted to join him. I found my way over to the mall and bought a pair of sunglasses. It was air conditioned; but so many people were going in and out so it was sort of lukewarm in the mall. Once again I saw many of the same stores that I noticed (Zara, Starbucks, etc.) in the previous cities. A lot of the Warsaw buildings looked like the top of a wedding cake. It was beautiful to look at.

Our tour guide said that Warsaw has been polished for the tourist. The center square was so big; but there were very few places to sit. The tour guides keep prodding us to participate in the night life; and there is a wild nightlife scene in Warsaw; however, after being out all day in the heat and sun and walking how many thousands of steps; I was just ready for bed.

In a couple of words; I did not like Warsaw. It felt big and impersonal and not my cup of tea. I started to realize (again) that all my life I have been traveling in what I call a “Shoestring”. Cutting corners and budgeting so that often times comfort was discarded for saving money.

We had 2 nights in the hotel; but only one full day in the city and honestly that was enough for me.

We got up early and walked to the train station to board first class train cars going to Krakow. It was going to be a 3+ hour journey; but it was so comfortable. The young man came around with the coffee cart and snacks. The windows were open and a nice breeze took away some of the heat. Looking out the windows I could see occasionally a farm house here and there or fields planted with something or other. Other than what is in the city; there is not much along the road.

We arrived in Krakow and it immediately felt GREAT to me. I don’t know what it is with me and cities. I get a feeling in a city and Krakow felt good to me. We were going to stay in the Jewish section of the city; so, we got on a tram car and traveled to our new hotel.

Our hotel was in the Jewish Quarter of the city and it was wonderful. I HAD A FAN!!! (It’s the little things that matter). Instead of going for lunch we went to the round-about located in the center of the Jewish Quarter. All kinds of food were available as well as ice cream. I really liked this area.

We began our tour and we stopped before we headed into the old city as a few members of the group wanted to have their laundry done. There is a place with a dedicated woman doing laundry in a Laundromat. The clothes were weighed and then paid for at the coffee shop.  Ah, Modern Life!

We walked and walked and found ourselves at a castle that the Wawel Dragon stood guard over. Much of all our surprise, after a couple minutes of watching, the dragon had flames coming out of his mouth. He had a lot of flames; almost to the point that I thought it would set the trees on fire. We all gasped and the children were frozen in place. I don’t know much about the castle as that is something that really does not interest me. But just in case you are, the link is below.


At times I felt like I was in Disney World walking toward the center square. We passed all kinds of food shops (Polish Donuts); ice cream and tons of cafes and restaurants as well as clothing stores (more of the same). I had a beer in the main square and waited for the hourly bugle call form the tower of St. Mary’s Church. It was entertaining.


I found my way to an English book shop in Krakow. As always; I get lost and then found; but, it was worth it. I so miss being in bookstores. I was looking for “The Tattooist of Auschwitz” and even though the book seller said they didn’t have a copy, I found one. Link before for more information.


At that point I found my way to the pierogi restaurant that the tour guide recommended. He said it is usually so crowded he has to take out and eat in the park. So, when I arrived it was just me and another couple – well, I didn’t know what to think. However, when I left there was standing room only in the restaurant and there was a line half a block long waiting to get in.

I had the Russian Pierogi’s  (with onions on top) that were better than my first sampling; but, I know I am comparing them to my grandmother’s and nothing will come close. Went back to the Jewish Quarter and had more ice cream and just sat and watched all the happenings in this very busy place.

The next day we went as a group to Auschwitz-Birkenau German Nazi concentration and extermination camp. I don’t need to say much about this; just a couple of items. We had a private bus pick us up at the hotel (what a treat that was) and during the hour plus journey to the site we watched a movie about the liberation of the camp that was filmed by Russian photographers. It was sobering; but the tour guide wanted to prepare us for what was to come.

As we get in line for our timed tickets we were given a lecture (all groups were given a lecture I was told) on how to behave in the camp. I thought it was so sad that people had to be reminded of how to behave at such a location. We all went thru metal detectors (similar to the airport) and had headphones to hear our guide.

Our guide was excellent. People were taking pictures but not too long into the tour they stopped. I never even started to take pictures. What we saw, I know for myself, left an imprint in my mind and body that cannot be duplicated with the digital camera. We walked through many of the buildings that showcased the tangible remains of the people who were enslaved here. Everyone spoke in muted voices and it was so quiet mostly you heard so many feet on gravel and the air pushing past your ears.

After a 20 minute rest, as our tour was around 2 hours; we headed to Birkenau. It was a hot, hot day and we entered the camp and walked. So many of the buildings didn’t survive; but, one can get the idea of the desolation that existed here. There was one of the rail cars that brought the prisoners into the camp. We were all so uncomfortable walking; but, I was trying to imagine how this place was in the winter/summer. There was nothing really to block the wind/sun and the buildings that survived surely didn’t shelter well.

I found a place to sit in the shade (barely) and let the group go forward. It was so difficult hearing how cruel life was here; but seeing the reality of it before my eyes made it (no words can describe). We walked, and walked and again (as they went into the buildings) I left the group. Just too much for me both physically and emotionally.

We returned to the city in silence. Most people fell asleep in the van as we returned. We never really spoke of it as a group; I don’t know what really could be said.

I went to the Jewish Quarter to have some lunch/dinner and had what is called Polish Fast Food. It is called a Zapiekanka. This is a long piece of bread that looks a lot like what I think of as garlic bread. This bread has a base of mushrooms and cheese and is baked. You can then, if you choose, place other stuff on top. For example, meats, all kinds of vegetables, so many options. I choose to add tomato. It was good; but too much  bread for me.


We were told this was very popular during the Russian times and then disappeared. However, it was making a return as fast food.

We found Polish Vodka (Hazelnut). OMG, if you want something delicious this is it. I didn’t buy any; however, hope to find in the States. (see below)


The next morning we had waiting for us outside our hotel another private van to take us to the Tatras Mountains in Slovakia. Wow, this is great. We left Poland traveling about 4 hours and arrived at a lovely hotel. We didn’t need a fan as the temperature and humidity was much more reasonable than the cities we were in.


Our rooms were not ready so we headed out for a tour. Again, walking, walking, but now it was not flat. We were walking and climbing. The atmosphere was so tranquil. Mostly there were people on bikes or walking on the paths. We stopped for lunch at a place the guide recommended. It was 4 Euro for a 2 course meal (beverage was extra). The owner was a real hoot. He could not speak English except for 2 words – “yummy” and “OK”.

I ordered the chicken soup and a chicken platter. The chicken soup was the BEST I’ve had in decades. It was even better than my chicken soup. Every time food was placed in front of us the owner said “yummy” – it was so cute. Another member of the group also had the chicken soup but barely touched it; so, I HAD to make sure the soup got a good home in my belly. Forget the chicken platter; I was in love with the soup.

Honestly, I didn’t do any of the hiking with the group. I’ve gained too much weigh to manage that; but, I was thrilled to be able to sit in the outside area and read and enjoy the view and the air (as well as the beer). J

We were in the mountains for two days and then headed to our final destination; that is, Prague. I’ve been to Prague many years ago and didn’t like it and I don’t know why. However, I thought I’d give it another chance.

Our mode of travel was different from Slovakia to Prague. We went overnight by sleeper train. Now, I had been dreading this as I was on a sleeper train in India and it was not a pleasant experience. However, when we boarded (3 to a berth) I was so surprised. The linen was not bad. Very while and clean. Not brand new; but not ragged either. I was starting to feel better.



Before I even realized it the train was moving. The window was open so I could hear the click, clack of the train. I got into my bottom bunk (that you my traveling companions) and watched as the towns went by. We had a lock on our door and a curtain so that no one could look in. I felt safe; however, for some reason I started to feel nauseous. The bathroom was not that far away; but, mind over matter, I told myself that this was not how I was going to spend my time on the train.

I did fall asleep; as we were woke up at 5:00am to the man bringing the coffee and pastry. The train was pulling in at 6:00am. When we got to the hotel, of course, our rooms were not ready so off we went on a tour after breakfast.  It was already so hot at 8:00am; I am glad we were walking early. The nauseous feeling continued; maybe now it was not the movement but the heat.

I pushed on to hopefully see some aspects of this city that other people see and fall in love with. Sadly, I did not. We did find a GREAT place to exchange money as Prague does not use the Euro. Most places were getting .21; however, we got .26. That was good news.


We did see the sculpture of Kafka that, even though we didn’t see it, they say it spins around (we were too early, I guess). I was so surprised that a few in the group did not know of his work. They wanted to know what his famous writings were.

The other landmark was the John Lennon Wall in Prague. I’ve listed a link in case you are interested in knowing more.  Also, something about the Charles Bridge that we crossed over to the old city.


I found a restaurant to have dinner in that was Air Conditioned; however, as I was being served the waitress opened the front door. OMG, are you kidding me. The only reason I came into this restaurant was to enjoy the A/c. The other couple in the place and I went over and closed the door.

After 14 days; I was fully cooked of Adventure Travel. I live Adventure Travel living here in Tbilisi; and I was ready to complete the tour. I knew I was going back to Hot, Hot Tbilisi (with no a/c); but then, I didn’t have to go on any more FORCED MARCHES (AKA – Tour Guides) – HA.

It was a wonderful trip, overall – but it was hard. The younger folks in the group said it was hard also and they were also ready to dis-engage; so, maybe my age or aging didn’t have as much to my fatigue as I thought.

Dealing with (6) countries; (3) different methods of currency; luggage; buses -  I realized I would not do this kind of travel again. One of the things I do is collect flags from each of the countries that I visit. I was NOT able to get Slovakia.

So much happened and I am grateful for the opportunity. I am sure I am missing lots of great stuff that happened; but this is enough. After I return from travel my mind continues to reveal so much of what I lived but didn’t register fully.

Thank you for joining me on my virtual travels within the blog J

Best, Catherine Lawrence – 8/7/18

 Polish Restaurant in Warsaw - July 2018
 Live Street Art in Warsaw - July 2018
 Courtyard of hotel in Warsaw...no privacy
 Me in the Jewish Sector of Krakow - July 2018
 One method of travel for rent in Krakow - July 2018
 A real live bear in the middle of the city - Warsaw
Polish Fast Food - could not wait and took a bite :-)

Saturday, August 4, 2018


Hello, My Faithful Readers

August 4, 2018
Volume 2, Number 09 (Part 1 of 2)

I was not able to do a July blog as I was traveling, as you may remember, from Estonia to Prague. Overall, it was a great trip. 14 days of travel through Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Slovakia (High Tatras Mountains) and finishing in Prague.

Be warned; this is Part 1 of 2 as I have a lot to write about. It was a very active tour and I am long winded (or heavy typing fingers) in the processing of all of the adventures and knowledge. I hope you enjoy reading as much as I like telling. J

I really like to blog about my travel for a couple of reasons.  That is, I get to live again the agony and the ecstasy of  travel (of course I say that tongue and cheek); as well as organize my thoughts and digest all that is witnessed and shared throughout the journey. I say agony because this trip was considered “Adventure Travel”. That is what they call traveling in Eastern Europe – Adventure. As if I didn’t know that living here in Georgia (the country) is an Adventure. I will go into specifics as I move through the countries; but just in general a couple of items.

First, we traveled via public transportation…trams, buses, cabs (at times) and the really big bus when traveling between countries. Since we didn’t have (as most trips usually have) a private van/bus for the tour group we ended up dragging our luggage from the hotel to the various pickup points. This was not easy at times due to distance, weather and also trying to get on during rush hour with the vehicle already filled with locals.

Second, most of the hotels were 2 star at best. None of the hotels had air conditioning and let me tell you it was HOT, HOT, HOT. Some hotels provided fans; most did not. A couple of hotels didn’t have elevators; so dragging luggage up to the room was a joy.

Third, because the windows had to remain open; and mostly we stayed near bus or train stations; the noise was terrible. The “chalk on blackboard” sounds of the trolley cars running right outside your window. The good news was that transportation stopped around mid-night; but, the dragging of luggage sounds over cobblestones continued throughout the night.

There were 16 of us in the group and what nice people. Everyone was very respectful and for the most part was on time for tours and other arrangements.

Ok, the tour begins….I always go to the initial city the day before the tour begins. It is a habit now and a good way for me to be rested and aware before the tour starts.

We began in Estonia (Tallinn), which is the capital. The hotel was marginal at best. The only meal that was part of the tour was breakfast; and at this hotel breakfast was meager. But, remember the tour is not about food (for me at least); but they say breakfast is the best part of the day; but not in Tallinn.

Tallinn is located on the Gulf of Finland and you can see the ferries taking people and cars across. The old city is listed as a UNESCO heritage site; with lots of cobblestones; shops and restaurants. The city is very big on ice cream shops. I had pizza and beer at an outside café (lots of outside cafes).  I watched tourists and locals strolling; some with dogs and many with baby carriages. The old town felt like a medieval village. It was a beautiful night and pleasant to be outside with a nice breeze. I could hear and see the seagulls.

However, I found the country (or it felt to me) like a flat line. There did not seem to be much animation in the people. I like to watch how people travel through space and here it seemed that robotic (maybe too strong a word) but I hope you can get a sense of what I was watching. Possibly because we were near the train and bus station there were many homeless men and most were drinking or already drunk. 

Oh well, Estonia which has more women than men; receives more tourist each year than its total population; has a high literacy rate (99.8%) and founders of skyping (dubbed the silicon valley of Europe). They vote on line (the first to do that in a digital society); and it’s the worlds least religious country. It currency is the Euro and was a former part of the Soviet Union. All these great attributes; and yet it was not to my liking. Oh Well…..

The tour schedule allowed (2) days in one city (with the exception of the High Tatras Mountain). This was a good thing as it allowed hand washing and drying of clothing as the tour continued.

The next destination was Riga, Latvia – and I really liked Latvia. This country does have a reputation of its citizens not being friendly. However, I really didn’t find any evidence (although I heard from the group that the waitress at one of the restaurants was not very professional and didn’t treat the group well.

We traveled (4-1/2) hours by bus from Estonia to Riga dragging our luggage behind us. All the buses have a bathroom as well as a FREE coffee machine. The bus was very comfortable; much better than many of the buses that I have been on to travel between cities in the States. Once again we stayed very near the train and bus station; but, the noise was not as disruptive.

One really sad piece of history is noted in the link below. It seems that the Salaspils concentration camp (along with other duties within the camp) was used to house children (In Latvia). It is told that the children were used as blood donors for the Nazi army. There is a memorial dedicated; I choose not to go as we were going to Auschwitz and Birkenau. I could not handle more than that.


We did a walking tour of the “Old Town” once we were settled into the hotel. Riga is really lovely; but it was HOT, HOT, HOT. The “Old Town” is big (Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site). It has with lots of stores, restaurants, outdoor cafes, and churches. St. Peter’s (A Gothic Church) is said to be 800 years old. “Paris of the East” is a label attached to this area.

“Old Town” had a wonderful exhibit of plastic, life size bears that represented a country in the world. I could not find the “why” this was done; but it was really wonderful looking at all the Bears in a row with their hands up (like they were being arrested). I found Georgia (the country) and my friend sent me the Bear (who looked like the Statue of Liberty) that represented the USA. It was a treat visually to see this.


The next day I went to the beach, Jurmala.  I traveled by boat from Riga (2-1/2 Hours). It was a relief from the heat. Jurmala is an upscale resort/seashore town. The beaches are free; however, some portions of the beach are restricted for the hotels. Jurmala does not have a boardwalk (so to speak); but, they do have a walk-way in the middle of the city that kind of doubles as a boardwalk. The area is “old world” with quaint shops. If I closed my eyes I would think I was in one of the New Jersey beach shore towns.

 I had lunch on the terrace of the Baltic Beach Hotel. What a fabulous place. The language was Russian all around me; however, the music being piped into the hotel was American Pop Music. I had beer and seafood and enjoyed looking at the Gulf of Riga (which to me looked like the ocean as no land was visible as far as my eye could see).

I stayed the day and it was wonderful and cool; almost, as the day wore on, I could have used a sweater. I took the train home which was 25 minutes. It was packed; barely got a seat. It was a fairly old train, no air conditioning so with the windows open the noise made conversation not possible. I say this as so many people (including Georgians) think I am Russian. My grandparents were Russian/Poles; so it is probably in my Genes someplace. I note this as so often, and on the train and also Old Town Squares I often am approached by someone speaking something other than English. It is very curious. J



We begin to make our way to our next port of call, Vilnius, Lithuania. Once again, after another 4-1/2 hour bus ride (basically the same as coming into Riga) we arrived. The hotel was very near the bus and train station; and as an added treat we had a McDonald’s right across the street. The hotel was the best so far. I actually was given a table fan. This was good news as it was still HOT, HOT.

We walked to the “Old Town” and did the tour. There is only (1) gate left in which to enter the area. (This is the only surviving gate of the first original five gates in the city wall that was built between 1503 and 1522. 

Again, there are lots of stores, restaurants and churches.

We did tour one of the Catholic Churches and later in the day, as I was leaving the area, I heard beautiful singing. As I entered I realized there was a mass going on. As a “Recovering Catholic” I decided to stay. The ritual of the mass is still present as it just cannot be erased from the memory of times past.

Once done, I treated myself to the cheese store. I’ve never heard of this cheese. It tastes like parmesan cheese; only better. The cheese is named “Dziuga”. The woman who ran the store was generous as placing all kinds of samples on the counter and not really watching how much was eaten. She just kept re-filling the bowls. It was organized according to how many months the cheese was aged – from 12 months to 36 months (in a variety to ageing in-between. So, I liked the 12month the best; however, I am told that the longer it is aged the better it is. So, that tells you I am not very sophisticated when it comes to the finer things in cheese.

I also discovered Starka 5 in Vilnius, as well as the Original Starka. I have no idea what it is other than what is on the web site. Only one thing is true and that is I LIKED IT. I wonder if I can get this in the States J
Starka is a type of distilled alcoholic beverage made from fermented rye mash. Traditionally Starka is made from natural rye spirit and aged in oak barrels with ...
Alcohol by volume‎: ‎40 - 50%

The buildings in Vilnius must be in muted colors like brown, cream, soft yellow, etc.. No loud colors are allowed. Also, you will never see the end of a street as all the streets are curved. It is really interesting to see this color and curve thing together. Very peaceful.

Another outing included visiting the KGB Museum; which was originally called The Museum of Genocide Victims. It was very gruesome and I certainly didn’t spend a lot of time reading all the documents posted in the museum. I know we have to remember; so as not to repeat – but, then I think and read that this type of horror is still going on in the world.

There is a mural (picture below) on the outside wall of a restaurant in the former “Red Light District” in Vilnius. It was done in 2016 and it depicts Trump and Putin in an intimate pose with a cigarette. This was the first time I’ve seen it; however, there was and is lots of information on the internet if you are interested. The below link shows them kissing; so I am not sure what was first (the kiss or the cigarette) or what was altered. In my opinion, both are Street Art.


Throughout the former soviet countries of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuanian there are many memorial honoring this Chain of Freedom Event. I’ve copied a small portion (below) from the web site just to introduce it. However, lots more information is available on the web site.

The Baltic Way or Baltic Chain (also Chain of Freedom;[1] EstonianBalti kettLatvianBaltijas ceļšLithuanianBaltijos keliasRussianБалтийский путь) was a peaceful political demonstration that occurred on 23 August 1989. Approximately two million people joined their hands to form a human chain spanning 675.5 kilometres (419.7 mi) across the three Baltic states – EstoniaLatvia, and Lithuania, considered at the time to be constituent republics of the Soviet Union.



Part 1 will end here (3 more countries to go) outlining just some of the happenings during the trip. Just more general information to each:

-1,300 miles or 2000 Kilometer was traveled from Estonia to Prague.
-All the cities had a McDonald
-All the cities had an “Old City” and a Central Square
-All the cities had basically the same clothing/jewelry stores
-All the cities had tourist coming out of the woodwork; to the point that you were elbowing each other trying to walk.

A final thought – If you close your eyes and turn around; it may be difficult to realize just what city you are in. They all seem so homogenized. Of course, each has a charm all its own; but at a quick glance (even now in this writing) I am having difficulty separating which pictures are from which city.

The world is getting smaller and smaller.

Catherine Lawrence, August 4, 2018
 Estonia market near the train station and hotel - July 2018
 Riga, Latvia - Me and Georgian Bear - July 2018
 Gulf of Riga - having seafood/beer at the seaside hotel (Latvia)
 Gulf of Riga, beach in Jurmala - July 2018
 Vilnius, Lithuania - mural on wall of Trump and Putin
Vilnius, Lithuania  - Main square in the Old City