Tuesday, January 30, 2018

Hello, My Faithful Readers

January 30, 2018
Volume 2, Number 02

Here we are already at the end of January. The first month of 2018 is coming to a close; and what a boring month it has been. Seriously, I sure don’t have a lot of exciting stuff to write about. How is this for excitement………

I went out today to buy beans. I don’t know how to cook dry bean so I always buy in the can. I like kidney beans and a few others; and I’ve always found them to be cheap. Well, that is not the case any longer (I know you are just sitting on the edge of seat waiting for this adventure) J.

It seems that HEINZ has found its way into Georgia so the shelves are stocked with HEINZ beans; however, they are not cheap. The price has doubled (maybe a little more than doubled). I’ve been on a search during this boring month for cheap beans in a can and sadly; cannot find any. Ah, the saga will continue.

On an up note we did have a couple more holidays since I last wrote. Georgia celebrated “Old New Year”. January 14th is the celebration date on the Gregorian calendar. Of course there were fireworks; but, not as intense as January 1st.  I understand that most Georgians go and visit family and friends on this date that they usually don’t get a chance to see throughout the year. The second holiday was on January 19th, which is The Epiphany. Also celebrated in Ukraine and Russia on January 19, marks the baptism of Jesus in the Orthodox Church. Believing that on this day water becomes holy and is imbued with special powers,


One final post about the holidays before we leave the topic; I forgot to mention last time that the Salvation Army has a presence here in Georgia. This was terrific news for me to hear; as I really didn’t know. I’ve found that there are so many great organizations here in Georgia; however, there is no way to find this out unless you either come across it by accident or someone tells you.

I found out about it at the International Women’s Association (of which I am a member). Every year the Salvation Army has a Christmas Party for children. They make requests for donations specific to either a boy or girl and the age range. They ask that the gift be wrapped with above detail listed on a card attached to the package. In this way each child gets a gift specific to their age and gender.

I arrive late and all the request cards were given out; however, as it turns out they had a last minute child coming to the party (12 yr old boy) – so I was tasked with finding a toy that would match. Now, this was no easy task as I have no idea what 12 year old boys are into today. I did find a sort or erector set that you could build 29 different things (eg., cars, boats; bridges..) all using the same parts over and over; however, with instructions on how to do it. I thought this would be challenging and hoped (I was not at the party) that the child found it fun.


Ok, one final, final thing about Georgian Christmas (1/7/18)…see picture of Disney Characters lined up on the street to amuse children. In addition to the characters they had a juice bar going and also Santa was available if you still wanted to ask him for more stuff. It was really cute. There was a lot of picture taking, balloons and some music in the background.  I was on my way to the Hard Rock Café for Christmas Dinner!

I’ve listed below a link to an article that speaks to the nutritional life here in Georgia. It is called the “Hidden hunger – Georgia creeping epidemic”. Awhile back I heard this statement that spoke to the Georgian diet…”We are not hungry, but we are starving”. I think this article goes into the “why’s” of the topic.

Anyone who has been reading my blog knows that I am not a fan of Georgian food. Tourists rave over the food; however, tourists are not long term residents.

According to the World Health Organisation, as many as 91% of deaths in Georgia are a result of non-communicable diseases, which are largely attributed to diet. This figure is much higher than in a lot of other less developed countries.


One of the great things about Tbilisi is the metro bus system.  This is very different from the Marshrutka (which is the yellow van that is more-or-less a shared taxi). The metro bus is just that, a bus. Some routes have nicer buses than others; but all have the ticket machine that I think it awesome.

This ticket machine does NOT involve the driver; so, he is free to drive (and in Tbilisi that is so important because driving is dangerous). You get on the bus and swipe your card (or insert money) into the machine and a little piece of paper rolls out. This paper tells you route, time of entry, amount paid and maybe a couple of other stats that the transit company needs to chart.

Once you have that piece of paper you need to hold onto it as periodically representatives from the transit company board the bus to check to see that everyone has their ticket. If you don’t then they help you pay your fair. It is a great system. I’ve watched people pass their wallets and bus card to total strangers to have them pay the fair (if they were not close to the ticket machine). No one is worried or hesitates to give their valuable to strangers as after the ticket it obtained the ticket and bus pass/wallet makes its way back to the owner.

The bus ride is .50 Tetri (which is half of (1) Lari. In US Money it equals .20 cents/USD. Can you imagine; .20 cents to ride a bus. Some routes take 45 minutes (depending on traffic) and others take 90 minutes or longer. But, no matter how long the ride is the price is one flat rate.

I really like the metro bus as you can see out the windows; regardless if you are standing or sitting. I would just add one negative; and that it – there are not enough buses here in Tbilisi (or maybe there are just too many people). At times there are so many people that not everyone can grab hold of a stationary bar for support during moving.  If this happens Georgian folks don’t think (or ask) to use people who have support to lean against or to grab hold of. I find this offensive. I don’t like being used as a pole to hold onto. This is just normal here; but I don’t like it. If a bus is that crowded I won’t get on; or get off and walk or wait for another bus.

Transportation here is not an easy get. At times I feel like I have been assaulted riding the bus and other times (if possible) walk rather than get on (walking also presents another set of problems). When I get to where I am going I usually breathe a sigh of relief that I arrived in one piece. It is not fun to travel here.

I’ve posted pictures of the bus machine and bus ticket below.

The Rotary Club has a presence here in Georgia. There are a few clubs in various cities throughout Georgia; however, I decided I am not going to participate. The Rotary is a really great organization and Georgia needs these kinds of people to organize them about starting and staying in business; however, I just don’t want to do the work.

I’ve attached a picture of a mural on the side of a building which I’ve past numerous times and never saw it. Reason being is that I don’t look up very often when I walk; so unless I stop and look up I miss lots of stuff. I don’t know the history of the mural; but, was so taken with it I wanted to share it.

My meditation program continues; as of today 212 days. The meditation continues to unearth stuff that I have not thought about (if ever) and makes me look at (sometimes) that I am still living as I did decades ago. I have been struggling with this process as often I don’t want to know (do you know what I mean); but, I work thru it and some answers have surfaced. I am still working on this and don’t yet want to share as my plan is not yet fully realized; but, more to follow.

I became a UPenn Alumni Interview for possible Undergraduate student entry– Fall 2018. This was an awesome experience. I interviewed one young lady and wish I could have interviewed more.

I thought I would be doing this in virtual reality; however, the young lady actually lives here in Georgia. We set an appointment and met in a local coffee shop to talk. I was so impressed. I watched as the potential student and her mother hobbled into the café on crutches as it seems she broke her leg while skiing. After mom left we sat for an hour and talked about her life, her aspirations and goals and why she picked Penn to apply to. I hope she gets in as I think she has a good chance and would be a good fit. Not everyone receives an interview with an Alumni – hoping that will give her an edge. She is a regular decision candidate so I’ll know by the end of March what her status is. I’ll keep you informed.

So, I was in a liquor store recently and wanted to share my experience. I wanted to buy a bottle of cognac and found what I wanted. There were (3) men sitting around and (1) female clerk on the cash register. I found what I wanted and went to pay for it. I noticed by the cognac there were about five empty cognac boxes sitting on the floor and asked the woman if I could have one. It is safer in a box as the plastic bags are so flimsy.

As she was ringing up the sale she said “no” – can’t have a box. I didn’t think I heard her right and asked again, and she repeated the “no”. It was said with such a matter of fact tone; so I said there are so many empty boxes there and it is safer to transport the bottle that way.  She just stood there and looked at me and held her hand out for the money. One of the men got up and went to the boxes and brought back a box…as if he didn’t I was leaving the store without purchasing the cognac.

At that point I made the decision to buy it as I didn’t want to go find another store so I handed her (2) 20 bills (the cognac was 29). She did put the cognac in the box and then into a bag and went back to her phone. I asked her for my change (she owed me 11 Gel) as I gave her 40 and the bill was 29. She looked at me like I had two heads and after I repeated that I needed my change she did give me the 11 gel.
It was really terrible to be treated that way as a paying customer. I felt dirty in that store and realized that nothing would be done (even if I knew who to report her attitude and behavior to). Customer service needs attention here in Tbilisi. I’ve been in stores waiting for an attendant and have been passed over for a Georgian who just showed up. I have many examples of this and often I just let it go as I am a guest in this country; but again (here in the country of hospitality) often courtesy and consideration (unless someone is looking) is lacking.

Recently the wind was so strong that it woke me up. The trees were thrashing around and since my apartment has trees so close; I thought one (or more) was coming through the window. Someone on FB clocked the wind at 79kph (which is almost 50 miles per hour).  I believe it. When I was in the village we had wind at that speed as I thought the roof was going to come off. Also, because I have floor to ceiling windows in my apartment and there is no insulation in the walls; I can feel the air pushing through. I can watch the threads on the drapes moving.

I think my neighbors in the apartment directly above me have a laundry service. I can hear their washing machine going day and night. They hang clothes out on the outside line (see picture) at least twice, if not three times a day. Now, none of this really bothers me. It is just curious. I thought initially that maybe they had lots of people living in the apartment; but, honestly, unless they had a couple dozen people the amount of clothes does not match up. Thankfully the clothes line does not block my view..then there would be a problem.

I went to a lecture at the Diplomatic Training Center here in Tbilisi (link below).  Once a month there is a lecture on various topics entitled “About Georgia”. In order to attend you need to be approved and present some type of ID. Someone meets you at the door and walks you into the lecture room. It all seems very CIA-ish; but was happy to attend.

The lecture r was to talk about Georgian Holidays and Traditions. The woman who gave the lecture gave a presentation that shocked me by some of the things she said; in that she was so honest. She spoke about wedding and funeral traditions; Supras (the Georgian feast w/lots of drinking) and the various regions within Georgia and its diversity.

She also spoke about “rules” in Georgia; in that “Not following the rules IS A RULE here in Georgia.” I know this to be true but never heard anyone say it out loud. She also spoke about lazy the Georgian people are and why Georgia has not progressed as other countries have. She said that if , for example, there was no transportation to do work then Georgian’s just didn’t do the work. Excuses always found a way to not work. Countries like Armenia didn’t adhere to this mindset like the Georgian people have. She indicated that Georgian felt they were “unlucky” and said that Georgians felt they survived by having the good nature given to them by God.

I wish I would have had a video of her lecture as I didn’t write down everything as I was stunned listening to her assessment (most, if not all being true).


My Faithful Readers I will close for now. February will begin my LAST teaching semester here in Georgia. I know this is the right and best decision for me; searching to put together my plan for beyond teaching. Also, waiting for SNOW. We had a few snow flakes here; but, mostly rain. I know snow is a pain; but I would sure love to see the park outside my window dressed in white.


Best, Catherine Lawrence – 1/30/18
 Pay Box on the Metro Bus
 Ticket given by the Pay Box on the Metro Bus
 Pay box, up close and personal 
 Upstair Neighbor hanging clothes - two or three times a day!
 1/7/18 Christmas in Tbilisi 
 Mural in Tbilisi at the Flower Mart
CREST toothpaste bought in Dubai - Arabic

Saturday, January 6, 2018

Hello, My Faithful Readers

January 6th, 2018
Volume 2, Number 01

Happy New Year!

I had hoped to close 2017 out with a blog at the end of December; however, (and I make no excuses) I just didn’t do it. Spending the holidays here in Tbilisi was so disappointing. As you may remember, my trip to Turkey was cancelled due to all VISAS being cancelled for US passport holders. I tried a couple of other options for travel; but, nothing felt right – so I decided to just stay put. I’ve always traveled over the holidays; so, this was really my first time in Georgia was the holidays. Well, I surely didn’t miss anything by leaving Georgia to travel in previous years.

So, what did I do…honestly, not a whole heck of a lot. I found out that they turn the water off more often as many people are away over the holidays. In addition, there was a water main break in my street which added additional days of joy without water.

Here in Georgia they (2) Christmas Holidays (12.25 and 1.7) and (2) New Years (1/1 and 1/14).

I did some exploring here in Tbilisi; areas that I’ve never been to. The cheapest way to do this is to just get on a bus and ride it to the end of the route.

Gldani is outside of Tbilisi – about a 90 minute bus ride. The link below is just 47 seconds which mainly show the amusement park for children; however, you can see many of the apartment buildings in the area. It is a HUGH area and there are SO MANY apartment buildings. Some are in good shape; however, others are from the Russian times and honestly it gives me pause looking at them. There is one bus (#51) from Tbilisi center to Gldani and the bus is packed with people. At the end of the route there is a grocery store; really nothing more than that and more apartment buildings. There is another bus (#99) that takes you further into Gldani. I cannot imagine riding this bus (90) minutes each way if I had to come into Tbilisi to work.

The stores and merchandise is exactly the same as you find in any other village or city here in Georgia. There is not a lot, if any, variety.


The second adventure was on the #88 bus up to Nutsubidze Plateau. Again, it was a long ride (75 minutes) and that was without traffic. There was not much to see; but we were climbing up the mountain almost the entire time. Many, many people use this bus and once again it is the ONLY bus going into this area.

The area had multitude of apartment buildings. Some were new but most were the old Russian apartments. I wonder sometimes how people live in them. The outside looks like it was ready to collapse. Again, not much at the end of the line; but, I was again sure glad that I didn’t have to travel back and forth to this area for work on a daily basis.

I went to a Chamber Music concert at the Conservatory. This was a real treat to listen to such professionalism. I reserved front row seat in the main theater and enjoyed every minute of it.


I also went to see the Nutcracker at the Tbilisi Opera House. All the tickets were sold out before Christmas; so, I will celebrate the Nutcracker in the Georgian Christmas Tradition on 1/5/18. The production was nice; great costumes and of course the music is outstanding; however, (there always seems to be a “However” here in Georgia…the audience members leave me shaking my head.

The play is geared to children, or the child in all of us; so the audience was filled with wonderfully dressed up children of all ages. Children need to be taught how to behave; and many of the adults here are failing at being role models. Adults during the performance talking just as if the play was not happening; phones ringing and being answered all are distractions that the adults seem to take as just business as usual here.

The aisle that allows access to the part of the theater that I was sitting in was blocked by children who wanted to be close to the rail (I was on the 1st tier). Their parents, as well as the theater attendants, brought it chairs from the corridor so that they could sit; however, with so many people (adults and children) sitting where they should not have been – myself and others in my section could not see the stage. I asked them to move as we could not see and wow, the black looks I got (this from the country of hospitality). The adults did move; but, the children were left to block the view. I did stay for the performance as it has been years since I’ve heard the music; but, all of this sure took some of the enjoyment away.


So, onto better things…today marks “Day 188” of meditation. I have continued the practice; but, I don’t feel it is necessary to announce it as the beginning of the blog. More and more the practice has become a part of my routine; but, I must say that some days are easier than others. One consideration is the time factor to give (1) hour to meditation on a daily basis requires some thought and planning  and the second is that depending on what I am dealing with at times it is just hard to be with myself without the distractions of life.

Dear, My Faithful Readers…I know this is really not exciting stuff; but, like I said being here in Tbilisi over the holidays was anything but exciting. Maybe, just maybe I am starting to really fall into a daily routine here in Eastern Europe?

So, let us talk about the Holidays…..The American Christmas (12/25) is just that; The American Christmas. Everything was open here in Tbilisi. It was just another day here in Georgia. Some friends planned a fancy dinner (group of ex-pats); but I declined. I did that for Thanksgiving and it was OK; so, spent the time reading and watching videos.

New Year celebration here in Tbilisi was different in that the people themselves put on a fireworks display. The display was dangerous as all get out as people buy fireworks on the street and then shoot them off wherever they can. I watched from my terrace (indoors) as across the horizon as far as I could see fireworks were going off for about 40 minutes. I watched as my neighbors in the high rise building next door shot fireworks out of the windows and I heard gun fire (this is very  common here). I hear that many ER visits happen; especially with children as they probably don’t know how to handle the rocket; but, like most crime here you won’t hear much of anything about the people hurt.

Fireworks are expensive; 15 Gel for each rocket. Now is US dollars that is not a lot of money; however, when you factor in that most people buy at least (5) rockets at a time – then you are talking real money. This is in light of the fact that in this country most of what you hear is that people are so poor. Salaries are low; so a purchase of (5) rockets could be 25% of their monthly salary. I’ve included a photo of an outdoor stand in the heart of Tbilisi that sells Rockets.

I also wanted to share another Georgian tradition: Chichilaki (Link Below)

Chichilaki is the Georgian version of the Christmas tree that was an inseparable part of New Year and Christmas centuries ago in Georgia. 

This item scared the beejesus (freaky) out of me. It’s the first time I’ve seen this item and in such quantity. They are lined up near the fireworks/rockets on the street for sale and I am told that every house in Georgia has one. It always amazes me how superstitious the Georgian people are – as this is a MUST have for a variety of reasons.


Another fact that I was not aware of (as I am usually not here during the holidays) is that just about everything is closed, of course, on January 1st; however, in addition everything is closed on the second day of the New Year; January 2nd.  The holiday is called “Bedoba” and it means January 2nd is “a day of luck”. According to tradition what happens on Bedoba happens the whole next year, so cheerful mood is advised.
Once again, superstition is over the top here. Most people, if they can, take the entire week off between New Years and Christmas and go and visit people they have not seen during the year.

So, what did I do on Bedoba….I didn’t realize everything was closed so I tried to do a couple of errands; things I didn’t want to do when the rockets were blasting. My January 2nd was peaceful and filled with great conversation and books. So, I don’t have anything to worry about J

A couple more things about New Year tradition before I close the blog. Some friends invited me to their home for the traditional New Year Dinner. The center piece is called Satsivi

A turkey dish fried in peanut oil which is very tasty and a traditional New Year’s main dish. With this dish and all of the the other foods laid out on this holiday, you will be stuffed instead of the turkey.
The family spent a lot of time and money preparing this meal; however, it was just not to my liking. I did try a little and it was OK (nothing I would go out of my way for). There were lots of other foods; potato salad; of course bread and cheese, wine, eggplant, walnut sauce..etc., etc.
I was so appreciative of the invitation and had to smile at their love of jazz and Eric Clapton music….playing in the background while we ate and talked.
So, Christmas is tomorrow (1/7) and next Sunday, (1/14) is OLD NEW YEAR – celebration of the New Year on the old Gregorian calendar – so, here we go again. Many Georgians feel it is just too much having (2) of each holiday; but, it does not appear that anything will change anytime soon. I think the 1/19 is also a holiday  - Orthodox Epiphany (most places are closed).
Ok, so finally something not holiday based….Peace Corps has a possible new Director. Please correct me if I am wrong; but awhile back was there some noise about Trump closing the Peace Corps (at least restricting its funding?) And, now he is nominating Jody Olsen as its Director.
So much of the current happenings in the world is so dire; that, one could lose sleep if you bought into what is published. I am not saying its fake; but, so much mis-information is placed out in the world – that if you wait long enough something happens that turns about what was previously published (like the example I gave).
The link below talks about the nomination. I am informed she is a social worker (or was). Don’t know what that means for the Peace Corps; as really don’t remember or know what the backgrounds are on former Directors. My affiliation and support of the PC goes very deep; so just wanted to include this milestone.

I invited a group of women to a Salon on December 30th. I had promised some women that I would have a gathering so they could see my new apartment and decided to couple that invitation with a Salon Topic. We spoke about “The Silence Breakers” – a hot topic in the US at the moment.

It was a great afternoon. I had the event catered by a local restaurant (just had to go pick up what I ordered) and we drank wine, ate good food and talked about this timely topic. I so miss having these types of discussions here in Georgia. The group liked it also and talked about scheduling more Salon’s….so, we shall see.

I will close for now and just say how lucky I am to have this GREAT apartment. The heater situation is not great; but, I compensate and dress warm. The weather has been so mild here that it has not been a hardship.

I’ve made some decisions that I will share in the next blog. These decisions will change my trajectory here in Georgia beginning in May, 2018. I am still working out some details so to put my plan in place; so, more in future blogs.

Happy Holidays and the Best to you, My Faithful Readers, for the New Year (2018)


Catherine Lawrence – 1/6/18

Rockets for Sale for NewYear, 2018
Georgian Christmas Tree
Georgian Christmas Tree
Flags from countries I have visited...not yet completed!