Friday, November 10, 2017

Hello, My Faithful Readers

November 10, 2017 – Part2
Volume 1, Number 15

130 days of Meditation (Continued)

Blogging twice in one day; but, wanted to chronicle my adventure before my memories faded. You know, that does happen…..senior moments J

So let us begin Part 2 with
Gostivar, Macedonia

Gostivar is a city that is not that far away from Tetovo, my deployment for the 1st election in Macedonia. Gostivar is where I was deployed for the 2nd election in Macedonia.


Before we go to Gostivar; let us talk some about Skopje (which is the capital city in Macedonia). When the STO’s (Short Term observers) arrive in-country we gather in the capital city to prepare for deployment.

To begin, Skopje is often called “The City of Statues”. As you would expect, there are LOTS of statues in Skopje. Our lead hotel was very close to the main square of the city (I’ve attached an article about the main square which will give better information that I can provide).

I must say though that I really enjoyed spending time in the square. It is close to the river and there are many, many beautiful bridges that cross over. There are so many restaurants along the river to choose from and nice places to just sit and enjoy and do nothing. The square is just filled with people and tourists. There are chestnut vendors along the square that will sell you a bag of roasted chestnuts for 50 Denar ($1.00 USD). What a great time I had people watching and eating chestnuts.  (I’ve posted pictures at the bottom of the blog)

Local beer is also a favorite. I could not tell you the names of the beer; but, absolutely great to the taste. There are about ½ million people living in Skopje and estimated about 2million people living in the entire country. Unemployment is high, about 25%. I had a little bit of spare time and just loved walking around the city.


I didn’t know that there is a geographical region in Greece that is called Macedonia; so, there is a BIG issue using the same name to identify the country of Macedonia. So, what is the country of Macedonia called: “The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia” (FYRoM) -  this is pending a resolution of the long-running dispute with Greece about the country’s name. There is so much history in this part of the world and I have barely scratched the surface.

Information: It is a land locked country; they have great wine (I’m told); the media is not free and due to unemployment many people have left the country – and this point brings a big question to light as many Macedonian people who live outside the country come home to vote. The question is – should they be allowed to vote for representation in an area they don’t live in any longer? This is on-going.

Gostivar

So, it is time now to move to Gostivar, which is the area of the country I was deployed to for the second round of elections.

One of the MOST amazing things in Gostivar was being able to cross the street. Honestly, this is a BIG deal. I almost felt like I was back in Switzerland as Pedestrians are treated like VIP’s in both places. There are crosswalks (the zebra)
And you must cross at these locations; however, as soon as you place your foot on the crosswalk the traffic stops. Heavens to Betsy!

At first when I saw this happening I was afraid for the folks who just walked out into traffic; but, after a couple of days I realized that this was the LAW here. People have the right of way and traffic stops when you are on the crosswalk. Honestly, I could move to Gostivar as a result of this – just kidding. But, after Tbilisi this is like heaven.

In Gostivar I was not deployed in the city. My partner and I went out into the villages as well as going up to the villages in the mountains to observe polling stations. Along the road I saw so many Muslim Cemeteries which were identified as the headstone are not very ornate and not much height to them. Mostly they are a slab of marble or granite; almost looking like a flat, white sheet of paper.

The hotel in Gostivar was called “Hilton”….and it was OK. They had an elevator, thank goodness as my knee was acting up. However, my room was cold. It felt like there was a window open even though there was not. They did give me a space heater; but, that really didn’t help. In the room throughout Macedonia they provide slippers to wear. Not the white slippers that hotels offer; but, leather slippers that you use in the summer. I’ve posted a picture.

We went to a local restaurant called “The Source” – because the restaurant is at the beginning of the river. It is a restaurant that farms its own fish – trout. As a land locked country the only get to get fish to be provide it; and that is exactly what they do. The fish was wonderful. It was gutted and grilled.  It is a beautiful location and if it had been warmer we could have sat outside and watched the fish; but, too cold.

The people of Gostivar were wonderful. They treated us with such kindness and an overwhelming feeling of “Welcome.” The Election Board in the polling stations are really happy to see us. They know we can only see 10-13 of the sometimes 50 polling stations in the district; so they feel lucky to have us.

A couple of times we left Gostivar and went up into the villages in the mountains. It took us the better part of an hour to climb and get to the location. What views and what marvelous air. People actually live at these altitudes; however, many people have shuttered their homes and left to go back to the city proper or just leave the country. Mostly this is due to employment. I would love to spend some time up in the mountains; and one of the local residents (who was a “Somebody” in the community) said to come on up and pick a house. Well, we know that won’t happen but, wow, that would be an amazing experience.


Back to Georgia to catch up on some happenings:

I have noticed that there are so many new buildings being constructed in Tbilisi. The building cranes seem to be everywhere…and I wonder who is going to fill up all these apartment buildings they are building. But one aspect of all this construction has given me great pause. When I look up at these buildings I often see items on the terrace and sometimes clothes hanging out to dry. Seriously, are people living in the building before they are finished?

I don’t know the answer to that; but, why would people hang clothes out if they were not living there? I wonder what about water or cooking if the building is still under construction. I think what a risk management nightmare this is and how unsafe this situation must be. I am so curious about this that I want to investigate more and will blog at another time about my findings. I find Georgia such a disconnect at time..as I feel so safe here and yet shake my head at how unsafe it is to have buildings occupied before complete. To be continued…….

So here is good news here in Georgia. Smart Cameras are being installed to operate in various Georgian cities (Tbilisi being one). It is noted that 3000 cameras will be installed to detect and catch traffic violations….yipee!!!! The violations will be communicated via a text message and since everyone has a cell phone the information will get through. I listed a link below to provide more information.


Point – It is difficult to buy a box of tissues (Kleenex) here in Tbilisi. You can buy the individual packets that you keep in your pocket; however, to buy a box to place on the table or in the bathroom is a real challenge. I don’t know why this is. I know in the village when I bought a box for the family they used it as napkins.

Stores are listed as opening (mostly) at 10:00am…and that is a joke. No matter what time it says on the window/door – mostly it does not happen. The store opens whenever the sales person gets there. Most of Georgia really does not start moving until around 10:00am and that is an early estimate. I usually wait until at least 90 minutes after the time is stated to go; as so often I end up waiting around until someone shows up.

I have been having a problem with my heater here in the apartment. This has been going on since early October. My landlord is a nice guy; but not very response. This is not unusual for Tbilisi (or all of Georgia for that matter). Often they just wait you out to see how long it will be before you just handle the problem on your own so they don’t have to get involved.

My landlord ends up pushing it off on the Real Estate man who secured the apartment for me. He is a very response man; however, there is only so much he can do. In any event, I have/had heat but it is marginal. I want more heat as I have floor to ceiling windows and nothing in my apartment is insulated. Just like the village the cold just comes through the walls.

Back and forth to check on the heater and finally after almost a month they called in a professional. I was lucky as that usually does not happen. They wanted me to pay for the “Master” visit and then they would reimburse me; however, I told them “No way” as I am not going to chase anyone down for reimbursement like I have to chase them down to answer email/text.

I like both men and I love this apartment and don’t want to move; but, for me the heat is not enough for me. I have a space heater and will find other ways to compensate (like I did in the village). The temperature of the boiler is in the 70’s F; but it is not enough and winter is not even here yet. So, we shall see……I will figure this out, Dear Reader…..it is just the way it is here in Georgia.

Recently the US Embassy here in Tbilisi sponsored a film festival that featured the movie “The Farthest” – which told about the development, deployment and progress of Voyager. What an evening…the theater was packed, standing room only. I learned so much; as I really had not been following the progress of this space journey. So many Georgia students were in the audience and asked during the Q&A session how they could get involved with NASA and space exploration.

It was a joy to listen to all the back story of the mission and see the part that Georgia had with the “Golden Record” – that is, an accumulation of sounds, music, language, etc., that was sent with Voyager in the event that it is intercepted by alien life. At the end of the movie they showed a view of our galaxy from the outer edges back toward earth and we got to see just how SMALL we are in the scope of the universe. It was a very sobering moment. Someone aligned it to a “piece of lint”…and yes, that is exactly what it looked like. If you have some time and are interested it is something that will impact your thinking.


I continue to work at the University of Georgia, Law School. The private lessons have been on hold as I’ve been traveling on the tutoring day for the past month; so need to catch up with my student. Also, working with the high school students on conversational English is going well. However, I wrote to the school administrators and said that they should arrange to have the class at least 90 minutes in the future. At the present we have an hour (60Minutes) but since many of the students arrive late; we are disrupted and those late don’t know where we are in the material. Also, it just seems like we get started and the session ends. These students are working towards going abroad to college so they are interested and don’t play around (too much) in class.

The IWA (International Women’s Association) is planning their annual Christmas Bazaar on December 2nd and I will be a part of the work force as a volunteer. I am looking forward to that.

Thanksgiving is coming and a group here in Tbilisi has made reservations to have dinner at a local Boutique Hotel. Last year at this time I was in the States reconnecting with my family; and planning to go to Disney World in Florida. It feels like a decade ago and yet it was only a year ago.

Recently the Swiss Embassy hosted a FREE concert of classical music at the Tbilisi State Conservatory. It was a wonderful concert with compositions by Hayden and Mozart. There was also a new composition that I could not even begin to describe. I thought it was awful, disjointed and sour (to give you a few adjectives). But, it was overall worth the time! This type of experience can be added to the list of what is good about living in Georgia…I know in the States I would never be invited to this type of performance given by the Swiss Embassy.


I will close for now and check in again at the end of November. This month is going by very quickly; which is very odd as usually time goes slowly here in Georgia, for me at least (and that is a good thing).  

Please accept my best wishes and Happy Thanksgiving Day to you, My Faithful Reader. I so appreciate all that has been given to me. Living here in Georgia as an ex-pat has been extraordinary!


Best, Catherine Lawrence – 11/10/17

 Selfie picture of me in Skopje, Macedonia - October 2017
 Alexander the Great and his Horse in the Square, Skopje
 One of the Bridges in Skopje
 Shoes for use at Hilton Hotel in Gostivar, Macedonia - October 2017
 City/Bridge of Statues - Skopje Bridge
Abundance of fruits and vegtables
Hello, My Faithful Readers

November 10, 2017
Volume 1, Number 14
Day 130 of Daily Meditation

It has been more time that I would like (between blog posts); as October was a busy, busy month. When I last wrote I said that I would be going to Macedonia to observe their Municipal Elections that were schedule for October 15th. Well, I was an Observer for that election as well as the run-off election on October 29th; because no clear winners resulted. Back-to-back international travel was wonderful but it did take a toll. I needed to be away a week for each election and when I returned I needed to catch up…so, that is my story and I am sticking to it J.

I love being part of the US Delegation to Observe Elections with the OSCE and OHIHR organizations. It is wonderful to travel with this group; meet such interesting people; see the country and how life is organized – I could go on; but, the experience does take its toll. We, the Observers spend a lot of time preparing to do the job of observing to insure a fair and free election. I am very honored to be selected as a STO (Short Term Observer).

I want to share some of my experiences on both trips as well as catch you up with what has been happening here in Georgia!

But first, as you can see today marks 130 days of Daily Meditation. This I am also proud of and especially that I was able to continue the practice while traveling. I organize my life around making sure that I spend the hour each day with myself. I do take this practice one day at a time as, honestly, some days I am looking for excuses not to meditate. At times it is just easier to distract rather than focus; but, overall the results of the Daily Meditation have been worth the time and sometimes being uncomfortable.

So, let us begin with new here in Georgia. Recently, as I was riding on the metro bus, a couple of boys got on with a DOG. Wow, it was a first for me as I have never seen a dog on the bus. Now, this was not your average street dog (who by-the-way are so mistreated and starving). But, this dog was a cute little (not sure of the breed) well taken care of dog. The dog just stood his ground as the bus started to move. Almost like this was a routine occurrence for it. He was so calm and confident. The boys did have him on a leash; but I think he would have been fine without it.

When I ride the escalator here in Georgia I am always curious about the booth at the bottom of the moving stairway that houses the escalator attendant. So, (see below) I was happy to see this article about the topic. These attendants are assigned at every metro station here in Tbilisi. The article talks about if this practice is a holdover from the Soviet period where jobs were created just so there were jobs for everyone.

Just like in Moscow the escalators here in Tbilisi are FAST moving. The article refers to jumping on the escalator and feeling that you are going over Niagara Falls. Yes, sometimes it feels like that to me. I usually wait until no one is behind me and I very gingerly approach the moving stair to wait until my foot can connect and then hold on for dear life to the moving hand rail. I do not move once I get on. The protocol is to stand on the “right” side while other passengers can move past you on the left. It is mostly a “2 minute” ride from top to bottom.

Anyway, back to the attendant. I know there is a person in the booth but seriously have no idea if it is a man or woman. I just don’t pay attention. I would hope that the attendant would be able to shut down the system if there is a problem; but I just don’t know exactly what powers they have (if any). I guess this is a job just like other jobs; boring as all get out. Watching people go up and down on the moving staircase.


I want to add a new section to the blog and think I will keep a separate running tally of events (don’t know why I didn’t think of this sooner). The new section will be called “Tales from the Classroom”. Of course, not original; however, the stories will be. I just continue to shake my head in disbelief at the antics in the classroom that I see.
As I was teaching University Students recently two situations arose that boggled my mind. Now, I am not sure why I was boggled as equally strange situations have occurred in the classroom; but, something clicked in me that said “you must write these situations down”; and so – here it is.

The first came as a result of a female student not having her textbook. Again, I don’t know why I singled this student out as many students don’t come to call with their textbook. As we are in the 7th week of class; I asked her why? She said that “the book didn’t fit in her handbag.”  She then pointed to her very small handbag that was on her desk. I thought she was kidding; but, Georgians usually don’t kid around. I gave her some suggestions…like, bring a bigger handbag or use a book bag; but, her face was deadpan and I got no response.

The second situation happened as I was marking the weekly quiz. It is a “given” here in Georgia that students cheat on tests. This is a behavior that it allowed and at times even encouraged from the 1st grade forward; so, having students cheat in college is not new. However, the student who was cheating was so engrossed in her cheating that she failed to place her OWN NAME on the quiz paper. She actually wrote the name of the person who she was cheating from.

So, let us leave Georgia for the moment so that I can share of my adventures in 
Macedonia


The first deployment, October 15th election, I was stationed in Tetovo. This city is in the Northeast area of the country. My partner and I were positioned to visit polling stations in the city itself. This was a real new experience for me as I have previously been positioned in the villages. Because we were in the city we were able to see many, many polling stations as car travel between locations was at a minimal. It was great to meet so many dedicated and caring folks who wanted the election to go off peacefully and fairly.

Here are some really interesting items about Tetovo.

First, they have a female Mayor (who was up for re-election and won). Women here, as well as around the world, are working to make it into the political landscape. I was happy to see it happening here.

Another point about Tetovo is that they have NO gas lines. That is, all the cooking is done on electric stoves. To take it one step further; ALL HEATING is done with WOOD BURNING STOVES as without gas lines that do not have gas heat systems. I was also amazed by this; as in this day and age – and this is a fair sized city not to have gas heat…well, I was surprised. As a result when you go up into the mountains (which surround the city) you see a haze of smoke. It is not very dense but you can see the haze hovering over the city. I didn’t find it difficult breathing in Tetovo; but, since I was there in October and winter has not really hit I wonder what it will be like in the dead of winter when everyone is using wood burning stoves.

Another point is that they DO NOT have a city bus service. The buses stop at the Bus station to pick people up to take to the villages (ONLY). They do not stop at areas within the city to transport people. Again, I was surprised and wondered how a city could operate without a bus system? Most people walk, take a taxi or they drive is they have a car. Other folks live within walking distance of shops and work and don’t need to go out of their circle very often. I guess this make the city quieter; but….Wow, cannot imagine not standing on a corner waiting for a bus. It seems that folks have just adjusted (this is what people do)…and it does work. The city it functional and thriving; so, more of an inconvenience (at times).

The exchange rate is wonderful (for me as an American). It is 53Denar to $1USD…and for example, a bottle of water is 40Denar. A salad in some places costs 120Denar…so, you can see how inexpensive it is. And, BTW – The salads are AWESOME. The fruits and vegetables look like they are fake – but, they are real, beautiful and delicious.


Borek is a must try in Macedonia. It is like a pie filled with either cheese or meat. I’m told you can get half and half….another  staple…..


Ajvar is a spread made of eggplant and red peppers….I was told it is do delicious; but I didn’t try it. The combination is not good for my digestive system (especially when traveling – if you know what I mean).

I could go on and on…so many wonderful and new things to try..but one other thing I wanted to mention the “Feelings” I had while in Macedonia. So, I have lived here in Georgia now going on 4 years…and yet, I have never felt other than “American.” It is not a bad thing….I love being an “American”; however, in Macedonia I felt for the FIRST time like a “European”. It was a really unique and wonderful feeling; however, I could not tell you why I felt like that.

Maybe, just maybe, because there are so many nationalities in Macedonia that I interacted with.  The fella who served as our interpreter was Albanian; our driver was Macedonian. I met folks from Kosovo and Serbia. Because we were deployed to the Northwest corner of the country, at times I met so many Albanian’s I felt like I was in Albania (although I was still in Macedonia). All different kinds of flags were posted representing each nationality; and wonderfully everyone seemed to get along.

There were so many mosques in the area that the only other place that I saw that many mosques was in Egypt. I just love the “Call to Prayer” and it seemed to just seamlessly fold into the daily course of the day. I have posted the link to the Painted Mosque in Tetovo that I was able to visit. It is an amazing space.


So let us go back to the question of why I felt European for the very first time in Macedonia and what that exactly feels like? I wish I knew; as once I returned here to Tbilisi that European feeling was gone. I was back being an “American.”  Of course it is not a bad thing; but very different. Even when I was in Western Europe, France, Italy…etc., I never had that European feeling.

I know I am leaving lots of stuff out and I will include in later blogs once they come to mind. But, just one more point. Because I was in the City I was able to observe one of the Prisons in Tetovo – as inmates are allowed to vote (if they are registered) – and most were. It felt more than a Rehabilitation House than a prison. It was all men and there were 4 men (2 sets of bunk beds in the room). A shoe tree was outside the room to accommodate the shoes. It was a facility that was not new and modern; but, it seemed very functional.

The metal detector going into the prison didn’t work; but, at a glance it didn’t look like anyone was interested in escaping. With unemployment at 25% in Macedonia maybe these men were jailed for what is called “soft” crime and with conditions on the outside being difficult – being inside with room and board was OK? I don’t know; these are just my impressions. The men all had very nice sports type clothing on and most had great, brand new sneakers. Everyone looked peaceful; no agitation.

The last census was done in Macedonia in the early 2000’s; so no one really knows how many people are actually living there. Riding thru the villages I saw many, many homes that were empty with the windows shuttered. There were so many empty buildings; some that were started and left unfinished.

Some news from air travel….there was a “cat” on the plane. It was in a pet carrier; but this cat was not happy. It cried the entire flight. At first I thought it was a baby and I thought, poor kid – I understand. But when I realized it was a “Cat” I was not a happy camper. Why do they allow this in the passenger cabin? It is not fair to paying customers to hear this during the flight. Reminds me of the Birds on the Doha flight – but, at least they were quiet.

Another aspect is the neck pillow that it seems everyone uses…how can I be a frequent flyer without having one of those pillows attached to your luggage? Well, I gave in and bought one and then promptly lost it as I am not used to having this pillow to drag around. So, I gave in again and bought another one, and once again lost it. Ok, these things are not cheap and after losing (2) decided it just is not for me. I felt like I was dragging around a person and they was worried about losing it; which is exactly what I did…..

I could go on but I am not writing a book – so, let me close with a couple more aspects of Georgia.

A brand new metro stationed opened here in Tbilisi (see link below).. This station has been on-going construction since I arrived here in Tbilisi 3+ years ago – so progress is being made. I have not had the opportunity to check it out; but, I am sure it will be a welcomed addition. So often, because of the traffic, it is so much better to be underground – faster.


I will close for now as I plan to post another blog very soon. I have so much to share about the second time I went to Macedonia for the October 29th election and even more stuff about Georgia.  One final point – my trip to Turkey for Christmas has been cancelled. It seems that the Turkish Government will not issue VISAS to US passport holders. Not sure of all the whys and wherefores but I imagine it has something to do with the US placing restrictions on Turkey.

In any event, I am so disappointed. I already had my air tickets purchased and waiting to hear if Turkish Air will reimburse as it is NOT my fault I cannot go. At this point, unless something arises, I will be spending Christmas/New Years in Georgia for the very first time. I have traveled outside of Georgia during these holidays since the year I arrived. So, this will be a new experience for me celebrating my Christmas (Georgian Christmas is in January) here in Tbilisi. I am sure there will be lots of write about.
Thank you, My Faithful Readers for sharing this GRAND adventure with me.


Best, Catherine Lawrence – 11/10/17

 Fire wood for heating in Tetovo - October 2017
 Tractors everywhere in Tetovo - October 2017
 Tetovo from Sar Mountain (mountain range in the Balkins)
 Me having Turkish Tea on the River in Tetovo
Haze that falls over Tetovo :-(