Sunday, June 25, 2017

Hello, My Faithful Readers
June 25, 2017

Volume 1, Number 8
Happy Summer Everyone!

June 21st is the start of summer so we are already a couple of days into the start of hot and humid weather here in Tbilisi. I was so busy last summer making the transition from Peace Corps to private citizen I seriously don’t remember how hot it was…but I am told it gets pretty nasty here with heat. I do have air conditioning and I bought some stand up fans; so, I will be able to cope…

Once again I was disappointed as a trip that I had signed up for was cancelled. The tour guides need a certain number of people to off-set their cost and that didn’t happen. The trip was for a short weekend (really overnight) to Borjomi and Vardzia.  I was in Borjomi briefly; but, never to Vardzia. Both areas look very interesting and I’ve listed the links below in the event that you would like to know more about the locations. I am hoping that at some point over the summer another trip will happen.


But, the good news is that I will be traveling during July. I am part of a silent meditation program that will take place in Dubai, UAE. I’ve already shared this with so many of my friends as I am very excited about the program as well as the travel. It is a 10 day program with Vipassana Meditation  (link below) as well as a link to the program location (about 45 minutes to the north of Dubai (Ras – al-Khaimah). A good friend has been speaking of this program for many years and finally I’ll have an opportunity to participate.

Of course, I’ll blog when I return in July; but, for now (and briefly) the program is silent which includes no computer, FB, email. Also, no reading or writing…OMG. I am excited but also apprehensive. At times my anxiety is off the charts; but, that is a good thing as it represents new territory being explored in my life. I am hoping that this adventure will give me some insights to unblock the log jam of my “limbo” period.  J

I will be flying with “Fly Dubai”. It is a 3+ hour flight, direct. Here in Georgia you never fly anywhere direct; so, this will be a treat. Also, their policy is that no animals will be on board – so, once again good news – no falcons. The policy that has been annoying is that they allow 7kg take on luggage; but, any other luggage you pay extra for (in addition to the cost of the ticket). Payment of $28USD (somewhere around there) gives you 20kg going to Dubai; however, coming home you DO NOT pay for luggage and the amount allowable is 40kg. I guess they encourage you to shop Dubai….

I plan to stay over after the seminar for a couple of days to explore the city. I know it will be HOT; but, I’ve been in Egypt in the summer so I think short term I can deal with it. I am looking forward to riding the metro and exploring the malls (plural) that I’ve heard so much about as well as the architecture.




Found the above link on CNN web site…..not just hotel rooms; but how and why the city grew as it did.

I found another music venue here in Tbilisi. It is the Kakhidze Music Center (link below). I was so impressed with this venue and I think you will be also when you click on the link. My favorite seat is in the upper left hand corner, on the balcony, which looks down on the orchestra as well as the conductor. I love this location as it reminds me of the Kimmel Center in Philadelphia. In that venue I also sat facing the conductor behind the Orchestra. But, never-the-less, an awesome position to see and hear the happenings on stage. The stage has a drop down elevator in order to bring up a baby grand piano.

I don’t know exact when this venue was refurbished; but, they certainly did a great job. The seats are comfortable and give leg room. The only negative I can say is that the venue does not give a “program” so I have no idea of which composers are being previewed. Nothing sounds familiar and that is OK by me; it is all so wonderful. I am just sorry I didn’t find this treasure until the end of the season; but, then there is always next season.


Another new adventure for me is that I have been tutoring a student privately. This is something that I have been resisting; seriously did not want to do. So, I quoted an unbelievable cost per hour in the hope that it would resolve the issue; but, that was not the case. The student is a lawyer; older man who is so educated and personable. He speaks German, Georgian, Russian and Passable English. (He was educated in Germany).  I just love tutoring him in English. The goal is for him to be a little better prepared for a trip he will be making to England later in the summer.

We meet 3 times per week for an hour each session. His basic English is fair so we are able to cover a lot of ground. I am using materials that I used this past semester when I was a lecturer at the University of Georgia Law School. We had an interesting session around the word “Instance”; “Implied” and many other words. Concepts like “Occam Razor” was totally foreign to him…but, it makes for really interesting conversation.  I’ve always noticed that Georgians seem to want to make every more difficult and complicated.

I have been pushing him to think more broadly. I am pushing him to integrate the vocabulary not only as to how it relates to law; but, how it works in the real world. I am so enjoying my time with the student. I didn’t ever think I would say that I enjoyed  (could even say love) teaching in this capacity. Maybe more private students will be on the horizon.

I celebrated my one year anniversary of renting my apartment and all is good. I have so many positives living here; but there are a couple of negatives. At some point during the year new neighbors arrived in the apartment above me. I’ve not met them; but, I hear them. Not their voices but I hear their feet/shoes. What I mean is that they walk, walk, walk….I can hear the click and clack of shoes on the hardwood floors. Most Georgian flat don’t have wall-to-wall carpet; so, I can hear them (I think more than one person) going from one place to another. This happens all day and sometimes all night. At first I was really annoyed; but, now I guess I am familiar with it.

Another negative is the tin roof I have outside my window. When it rains (and especially when it hails) it sounds like machine-gun fire. But then the rain eventually stops. What does not stop is the water from the A/C’s above my flat dripping water onto the roof. My landlord did put some towels down to buffer the sound; but, it hardly works. When my windows are open the drip, drip dropping on the roof is annoying…but, again – I think I am just getting used to it.

Here in Georgia one really does not have any recourse in situations like this. You just put up with it. Mostly I think it is because many Georgian’s are not considerate of how their actions affect other people.

Cinema City is a new venue that I found here in Tbilisi. I have not been yet; but, I am looking forward to maybe having an event there. You can rent the theater to accommodate a certain number of people. So, a private party with video is to be had. I don’t know of any venues like this in the States…maybe there are. But, I think it is cool to have this available here in Tbilisi.


I was watching recently how some men were pruning trees. I thought it was very odd what they were doing; as in Philadelphia people usually use a cherry picker and a chain saw to take down branches that are either dead or have blocked electric wires or other areas that should be clear. Well, here in Tbilisi I was watching the men take some type of rope and throw it up so that it wrapped around the branch. Then the men pulled together so that the branch snapped and falls to the ground.

Maybe this was an isolated incident; but, since I have never seem people working on trees other than the explanation I described above – well, I am left to think this is how they get to prune over-grown trees. In the scope of things; who cares. It is just that I found this interesting. Earth shattering stuff (HA).

At the Infant House recently I was able to work with the infants. Usually I work with the toddlers – children that are able to stand and crawl on their own. But, working with the babies has been very rewarding. One little girl has no hands; but, she is such a smiley baby. I kiss her stump and make fizzy sounds on her arms and she smiles and smiles. The other day it was so nice that we went outside with the coaches. It has been many years since I pushed a baby in a coach. It was joyous.

I continue to take their socks off when I can. I just think babies love having their feet free and have the air breeze over them. Of course it is warm out so their feet are not cold; but the staff is still not happy that I do that. However, no one says I cannot. The staff won’t let me feed any of the children. I don’t know why; as it is like an assembly line trying to get all the children fed. The crying is hard to take as the babies are looking for food and I just try to entertain until they get their turn. Maybe it is a Ministry rule that non-staff cannot provide any services; but, it sure is frustrating.
I’ve included pictures of the old metro bus and the NEW metro bus. The bus fare is .40 tetrie, which is about 15 cents (US) (or thereabout).  The new fleet is really nice; much more modern and they are air conditioned. So, the soot from the bus and the fumes from all the traffic does not overwhelm when riding on the bus. The plan is to replace all the buses….good job well done.!

I went to a lecture recently with a group called “The Caucasus Research Resource Centers “. This program is a network of training, research support and resource centers established in 2003 in the capital cities of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan. The lecture was about the Tbilisi Metro and current ridership as well as plans for future development. Interesting, it was noted that the Tbilisi Metro is modeled after the Russians and the model is still used here in Georgia even though it is not used in Russian any longer….curious.

The lectures are called WIP lectures which stands for Works in Progress.


Article entitled “How Poverty makes people nostalgic for the Soviet Union”


And finally, I was reading an article (text below) and was not surprised at the figures that were listed. Most Georgians don’t have enough money to buy food on a regular basis. Excluding rent; I could live on what the report indicates; which is $250 USD per month. Of course I am not living large; or splurging on much of anything. That money just handles my basic food needs and transportation and telephone money. As the exchange rate is $2.40 USD for 1 Gel…the USD goes a long way here.
Living here in Georgia is not all peaches and cream…these folks do have some real problems (as if the USA does not). But living here I want to share what I can of information that is not usually placed in the main stream media (if you find this interesting).

According to the World Bank, GDP in Georgia increased from USD 10.1 billion to USD 13.9 billion between 2009 and 2015. Despite this growth, according to CRRC’s Caucasus Barometer survey (CB), the share of those who reported not having enough money to buy food on at least a weekly basis did not decrease between 2011 and 2015.

According to CB 2015, 61% of the population reported their household income was less than USD 250 the month.

CB data show that a large share of households in Georgia have financial difficulties supporting their families’ primary needs and a majority struggle with not having enough money for food at least some of the time.

The new class of Peace Corps Volunteers (G-17) – remember I was a G-14 (which means the 14th or 17th class arriving in Georgia) will graduate on July 7th. I always plan to go as it is a special day for everyone involved in Peace Corps; however, I will be in Dubai and will miss it this year.

I am sure there is
lots more to write about; but I will close for now. Thank you for staying with me on my Magical Mystery Tour.


All the best, My Faithful Readers…Catherine Lawrence – 6/25/17


 Old City, Tbilisi..picture taken by my friend Michelle
 Old metro bus
 New metro bus
 State of Balconies in a building close by...looks unstable
Not a great picture of an apartment building; depressing





Monday, June 5, 2017

Hello, My Faithful Readers
June 4, 2017
Volume 1, Number 7

Hello My Faithful Readers:

Well, here we are in June which represents my 1 year Anniversary living as an Ex-pat here in Georgia. It was on June 15th that I rented my apartment and on June 30th completed my Peace Corps 27 months of service and moved from the Village in Sagarejo to the Capital City of Tbilisi.

All throughout my Peace Corps Service “time” seemed to go slow. I thought that was because life was so hard living in a village without all the conveniences that I had when I lived in the US. However, here I am living a really good life in the Capital City and I have so many conveniences and “time” is still moving at a snail pace.  I was always told that when you get older time seems to go much faster than when you were young; however, that has not been my experience here.

So, to continue my saga of LIMBO I want to provide an update to my retirement.
As I wrote previously; I never really felt retired due to the rigor or the Peace Corps and then to establish myself in Georgia as a private citizen…but, now that all of that is behind me I am feeling for the first time what it feels like to be retired. That feeling is LIMBO. I’ve never had a time in my life when I didn’t have something “to do.”  I could work here 24/7; but, I am not really sure I want to teach. I have to sit on my hands some days so that I won’t fill my calendar with “something” just to have “something” on the calendar. It is wonderful and un-nerving all at the same time.

Last night I finished teaching my adult English Class at the Sulkhan Saba University (link below).  I was teaching a 2-hour class to adults on Friday evenings and last night was the final class. As I was traveling home I realized that every one of my obligations was complete. And I had nothing on the horizon. I have many possibilities out in the world; but, nothing that has been confirmed….so, I am adrift. I don’t know what to do. I keep asking questions and hope that some answers will arise….My Faithful Readers, my LIMBO period is a gift and I want to take advantage of this period in my life. So, I will keep you posted as to what is next.


We had a couple of holidays here. On May 12th was the celebration of Apostle Andrew the “first called” found of the Georgian Orthodox Church. The second holiday was May 26th, Independence Day. On this date in 1918 the Council of Georgia declared national independence of the Georgian people and the creation of Democratic Republic of Georgia. The Statehood was restored after 117 years (from 1801).

The Independence Day celebration was very much like the 4th of July in the States. Of course, a parade with marching bands; music for all ages; food; fireworks…a great time was had by all. Link below with more information.


Also, here in Georgia we celebrate the end of the Second World War on May 8th. Maybe they do this in the States; but, I have no memory of it.


There is a shameful trend here in Georgia. I don’t know how long it has been going on; I only know that I am now aware of real people being subjected to this (what seems to me) blackmail. The gist of the trend is that employers require people to work as a volunteer (sometimes for months) with the promise of a possible job at the end. Often, if the job does not materialize then money is never paid. This is just shameful.

Another variation of this volunteer practice for the promise of work is to provide a salary so low it is unthinkable to fathom. For example; a friend of a friend was offered a full time job of 48 hours a week for 300 Gel (total per month). You do the math…as it is just horrible what people are expected to earn.

Most people here live with their families as they cannot afford to be on their own. It is a shameful policy and seems to be spreading. As employers see that this policy works and they can get free labor more and more of it is happening.

I was recently offered a position at a summer camp. The pay was 500 GEL for 20 days. It was clearly explained to me that there would be no time off and also I would be expected to be available 24/7 to function as teacher; guide; handle problems during the night, etc. etc…..ok, maybe overstated a little bit, but say 20 days X 24 hours = Less than 1 GEL. (1 GEL = $2.42 USD). I declined the position and I realize that summer camp is not about the money; but, honestly, these children pay lots of money to attend camp and it is surely not going to the teachers….enough said.

On a domestic note….I was told that cleaning of the floors was only to be done with plain water. Really, no soap is used? Yes, that is correct. Everyone has this stick that looks like an inverted “T” that you wrap a rag around and you wash the floors with this device. I’ve been scratching my head about this for a year now. My apartment does not get very dirty as I am the only person living here; but still…

Since I arrived here in Georgia I have wanted to have a cigarette. At times the feeling was overwhelming; to the point where I put myself in the space of smokers so that I could partake in some way. So, you say…..go have a cigarette and I say, yes, that is a response but I was so concerned with starting an age old practice. I gave up smoking in 1990 and really didn’t want to – but, compulsive habits often need to continually need to be beaten down with a stick.

However, and this is the big HOWEVER, recently I was having wine in a beautiful location (Turtle Lake – I will write about that in a minute). In any event, the friend I was with had a couple of cigarettes that were donated by one of the patrons at the cafĂ© – so, being a little tipsy with the wine decided to indulge. Basically, it was horrible. I inhaled once and almost coughed my lung up. It felt terrible holding this cancer stick in my hand. I puffed but it made me realize that I never wanted to do this again. The good news is that I have no desire any longer to smoke.

So, why didn’t I do this sooner…I wish I would have. But, maybe I felt I was not strong enough to combat the addiction – but, I proved  myself wrong. I’ve included a photo of me with the “smoke”….

What about Cigars….they are big here in Georgia! Ha, we shall see.

Turtle Lake was beyond anything I could have pictured. I’ve included some pictures and a web site. Turtle Lake is high on one of the hills that surround Tbilisi; so, to get there you can drive; but, you can also take the recently opened cable car.

Now, the cable car – in my opinion – leaves a lot to be desired. I was Very apprehensive once I saw it. The construction seems very shabby. An attendant travels the 6 minutes up to the top of the hill to Turtle Lake with the patrons. It cost 1-Gel each way – so affordable. But the cable car (or tramway) door does not fully close with a seal. The attendant stands by the door and then places a metal bar across the door. I would imagine so if the door could accidentally swing open no one would fall out. The floor is metal and pieced together with rivets that do not fit together fully flushed. You cannot see daylight through them; but, the metal seems to pop when you step or stand on it.

When you arrive at the top of the hill the cable car does not anchor; so, that when you step off the car has a little bit of a swing to it. The attendant is there to hold your hand stepping off; but, really – it is a lot scarey.


Years ago there was a cable car accident in another location in Tbilisi; but this was in my mind. I was surprised and disappointed that in light of that accident that more steps were not taken to insure that the Turtle Lake cable car was solid. It sure did not feel solid to me. I think they spent more money on the building that houses the start of the trip than they did on the cable car.

When I read in the article that instead of buying new state-of-the-art gondolas they completely rehabilitating” two old gondolas – it did not surprise me.


Once you get off the cable car and walk to the lake; well, it is more wonderful than words can describe. Idyllic comes to mind. The day was beautiful; the water was sparking and because it was a week day there were very few people there. The location provides many restaurants and coffee shops to sit and enjoy the surroundings. Also, provided is a jogging/walking path around the lake; paddle boats to rent if you want to go on the lake and a small space if you want to swim (really more like just dipping in). There is also an exercise area that provides heavy duty exercise bikes and other types of equipment. This is a joyful place. My problem now is how to get there without using the cable car. I will research to see if the city will provide marsh or metro bus transportation – I hope so. I have attached some pictures of the area as this is one of the treasures of Tbilisi.

I don’t know if I wrote about this before; but, I have found Cognac here in Georgia. It is called a Wine Brandy; but, the folks who know say it is Cognac (not that I could tell the different) – but never-the-less; I like it. I’ve listed the web site to Sarajishvili company which is the brand that I like. And keeping with alcohol; my favorite is Jameson Irish Whiskey….and my friends now call Mr. Jameson my boyfriend….maybe that is a sad fact.


I am told that Armenia makes a terrific cognac or brandy; so I need to try some. When I was in Armenia I didn’t get to tour the factory that makes the Brandy; I was disappointed. But, the brandy/cognac is readily available here in Tbilisi. I will go on a field mission and report in subsequent blogs.

I’ve listed the web site below; but, be warned you need to be of legal drinking age to enter. That is so funny as how would the web site know you were telling the truth.


And finally, one of the HIGHLIGHTS of May was finding the Music Conservatoire here in Tbilisi. I have heard tell of this school/music venue; but, I never took the time to investigate. I attended a concert performance for 8 GEL which is $3.31. My seat was on the ceiling; but, it didn’t matter. I was seated at the rail looking down at the stage. The theater was refurbished recently and it was magnificent. The main concert hall was beautifully tailored from top to bottom. I could have just sat in the space and breathed in the magnificence of my surroundings.

The music was outstanding. A full orchestra presented classical composers for the first half of the performance. I get goose bumps just thinking about all this. I felt like I was back in the US as that was the caliber of the professionalism exhibited. The second half presented (3) pianos lined up side-by-side. (6) students came out; (2) to a piano bench. One played and the other turned pages. Again, I was just blown away. I didn’t recognize the music but it didn’t matter. The expertise and talent really took over. The students changed roles of player or page turner and the pianos were accompanied by the orchestra members that were surrounding the pianos. Overwhelming is the word to describe all of this.

The only disappointments were the fact that no printed programs were given out; as I would have liked to know the composers of the pieces played and also that I found all this so late in the season. But, come September!!!!

After the performance I went on to search their web site and found that there were many recitals scheduled for the upcoming week….and they were FREE. I found the recital hall which was just as magnificent at the concert hall. The performance involved students playing the violin. They were accompanied by a pianist so that each performance involved just the two performers. Again, I didn’t know the composers but it didn’t matter. The talent was awesome. Most of the performers were women who came to the stage with poise and confidence. Most didn’t even bring sheet music with them. To have such command of the complex music and do so with such self assurance gave me chills. A program was distributed; but it was all in Georgian….so I was clueless J


Although I am here in Tbilisi for a year; I still find these fabulous treasures here. I know I have a great deal more to explore and I love every minute of it.

I will close for now and thank you for sharing this amazing journey with me.

Best, Catherine Lawrence – 6/4/17
 Me "smoking" at Turtle Lake Cafe - OMG, Horrible :-(
 Sulkhan-Saba Orbeliani Teaching University - night school
 Turtle Lake - June, 2017
 Turtle Lake Cable Car Entrance - June, 2017
Typical Class room at Sulkhan-Saba Orbeliani Teaching University